Just some reports and thoughts of what is happening in my little world and, hopefully, that of my friends.
Thursday, September 13, 2012
Bouncing Back
It's always good when you attain something that you have lusted after, something that has made you sweat a little, something that has had you lying awake obsessing over. For me, that was my new problem, The Taken. I don't usually spend a lot of time on a particular problem, once I can do the moves, it's usually only a matter of one or maybe two sessions before for the business is done. That's my MO and that's the way I likes it. But, this sucker was different. I did the power crux in a session, a weird lock off move on the right hand up to a 'no hold' with the left. Move your feet over and dead point sideways to a jug. Take the tension and then begin the scary bit. Unfortunately, it didn't go according to plan. The sequence I had for the top came unstuck pretty quick. Cranking hard on a pebble, I skidded off, only to leave the entire pad of my middle finger resting on the hold. Two weeks and a bunch of fretting later and I was back to it. I knew that I couldn't face trying to do the move that way again, so I jumped on a cord and spent a good hour working out a new sequence. Armed with this new beta, I set off from the beginning, not to be denied my prize. A slight glitch however, I could no longer stick the low crux. Mildly frustrating to say the least. I had to walk away for another day. Luckily, the following day I was able to convince my spotters to venture in again to give me the support necessary. After a couple of falls at the crux I blasted through the bottom, ready to tackle the top section. Take a horizontal slopey pinch with the left, a good crimp with the right, hurl my right heel up to shoulder height, lock in desperately, take a slopey, slopey crimp with the right, drop into a side pull with the left, then launch again with the left to a slopey rail above. Fight hard to hold the tension, then match it up and delicately complete the top out. Result. Punter 1 - Problem 1. A decent tie I reckon... Thanks for the support from all those who came out to spot, it was much appreciated.
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