Wednesday, March 27, 2013

End of Daze...

Twin Fin

The Bakelight Concept



The Clarkshark, desperate for the coveted 5th
ascent of the Bath Shark, V8...
Just in the last few days, the mornings have become crisp and I have shelved my harness in favor of my preferred crash pads. I've had my eye on a couple of really great lines in a newish area, but have been unable to really have a good go at either of them, mostly due to the stifling heat. The first is a pair of vertical seams that climbs with some really great slopey compression moves, with an unlikely dead point to finish. It took a few sessions to work out the crux, but when it came together, it felt pretty straight forward, symptomatic of first ascents I guess. It's called Twin Fin and is a grand line. The second is one of the coolest lines I have done in ages. 6 moves long, it has an awesome crux, a long dead point to a left hand crimp in a slot followed by a jump to a high side pull with the right. It's a total classic, called The Bakelight Concept and hopefully marks the beginning of a long, cold and dry bouldering season...

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