Routes Minister

Musk Up

Every year about this time I have a little discussion in my head. It usually goes a little like this:  "Maybe this year I'll get fit and do all of those routes that I have had my eye on for years and years. Shut up idiot, that sounds stupid, it's hard work, hot, sweaty and there's not enough hard moves. Besides, we're going to Europe in six weeks on a bouldering trip. Hmmm, good point dude, let's go do some hard moves close to the ground. It's more fun, get loads done and it's a great way to stay in shape." Aside from the worrying fact that there are twin conversations going on in my head at one time, I inevitably do one or two routes and then head off to cooler climes to boulder my little heart out. However, this year there is no christmas trip planned, no escaping the heat, no euro babes and no spanish sessions. As disappointing as this may be, it does give me an opportunity to do some routes. And I gotta admit, I'm pretty damned psyched for it. I really enjoy climbing routes, it's just that when you're not fit, it's difficult and you don't get much out of it. But, there's almost nothing that a little success can't overcome...

The only picture I have of me with a rope on...

I've dabbled on routes up at Sandanista over the years, but have never really committed to getting fit enough to complete any of them. I once fell off the very last move of Daniel or Tiger and last season bumbled at most points on Contra Arms Pump and still didn't manage to send it. I have also had a play on Samosa, but really never put enough time into refining the moves to give it a real go. All this changed last week. Amnesty first for a warm up, decided to walk up Peace Keeper for a warm up. Not too bad, wasn't too pumped. Scotty Clarke and myself then headed back over to sandanista and sorted out the crux moves on Contra. A few little changes to my sequence, actually some major changes, made it a lot more manageable. Now, a real 30, rather than a really hard boulder that I had been doing before. A couple of days later and we were back, I decided I would have a quick glance at the top for a warm up and then go for it. I cruised through the crux, felt amazing coming into the weird finger lock section, plenty of gas left. Sweet, it's on. I lunged for the big side pull that I wanted, but brushed my hand on a bit of foliage sticking out of a crack and all of a sudden I was falling. What the fuck?!?!? Much to Al and Josh's amusement, I was fuming. I knew that I only had one more go in me, otherwise I'd box up and be useless. I tied in, hoping that I would be able to get through with enough gas to tackle the face again. Thankfully, I got through the bottom section smoothly and locked like a crazy man into the side-pulls before slapping wildly into the rest. From there a fair bit of recovery ensued before rocking out to the top. Ah, relief.
Next up, Samosa. I had a quick dabble last week and managed to link through from just above the crux to the top, so hopefully, with a little bit of honing and a touch more fitness I'll be a route minister in no time...