Monday, April 23, 2012

La Cuerda

Underclinging through the 8th dimension
Well Easter has come and gone and it's back to the grindstone this week, but what a fabulous break it was. Scootsy came to visit for a week and the old partnership was back to its best in no time. Random calculations, epic table tennis matches and a spot of drinking seemed to be the norm for the trip. Oh, and I almost forgot, a little bouldering thrown in for good measure. We visited a few new areas, including Bundaleer and a place called Wallaby Rocks. Both good in their own way, but neither enough to sustain a proper Weill style assault, that is, returning week after week until all of the good lines are done. We did manage to eek out some lovely first ascents, especially the horizontal fridge slapping gem, Kick Ass, named in honour of the film that we had watched the night before. Classic, by the way. I added a sweet problem up a classic feature at Bundaleer, Underclinging through the eighth dimension, V10ish, starts with a pair of low undercuts and involves a couple of powerful slaps with the left hand before catching a wild tag with the right hand off a smeary footer. Good line, sandy crag, probably not a must visit.
Kick Ass
We had a day at the newly famous Cave of Man Hands where Scoots managed the second ascent of Dos Manos. A good effort by the number crunching desk jockey I must admit. I was worried that he was going to find some easy way to do all of my problems, but thankfully there was to be no ruining of Sound of One Man Hand Clapping. The cut loose move kept the lad honest, especially after he proclaimed that he had it sorted...

Scootsy on a new V7 at Wallaby Rocks
We managed a visit to Nati on Easter Saturday in time to catch Goatfest. I had entered a video that I had shot and edited on a whim. I had no real expectations, which was lucky, because we ended up not being able to get in, instead passing most of the fest in the pub, getting gently pickled. A message alerted us to the fact that the films were done and it was time to head back to catch up with some friends, but as we entered they were announcing the winners. I was absolutely shocked to hear my name called out, Dead Heat had taken out the Judges award and the Audience award. Next thing I knew I was up on stage receiving an award and being asked to make a speech. Now, all who know me, know that I love to be the centre of attention and having two hundred people hanging on every word I say is like nirvana for me. Unfortunately, the days climbing and a dozen beers put paid to any Ricky Gervais style acceptance speech. I was almost speechless and have been kicking myself ever since. What if I said...

So, anyway, I got to do a heap of bouldering but also continued on with some corded work as well. I had two days down south to finish up my break and managed to actually tick a couple of things. I did Demon Flower at Muline, 30, and almost did Wild Orchid, also 30 on the same day, falling on the last move, but this will definitely go down next visit. I also did Chasing the Shadow at the Gallery, 27. Not a super hard route, but one that I had tried earlier this season, failing on the final section. Clearly my fitness is improving, as I was able to shake out where I fell previously. I was unaccountably chuffed with this send, but safe to say, climbing on a rope has been loads of fun, not something I have done much of in the last few years.

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