Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Summer Love

Stepping off a long haul flight into a lazy 35 degree heat at 8pm at night I was struck immediately by how underwhelmed I was to be back in Australia, and particularly, heading back to work three days later. Six weeks of bouldering everyday, having no responsibilities, and no master, really only exacerbated the fact that I want to climb all the time and do very little else.

Arete with Pocket, 8a
Switzerland, What a place!!! The first week was a bit of a write off really, but I managed to use it to get my eye in, before getting involved with some harder problems in the second week when the tape came off. I really only felt like I was warming up to the style by the last day and could envisage doing some of the harder lines there, given a bit of extra time and some more amazing conditions. Chironico is such a varied place, with problems for every type of climber, but Brione was my favourite spot for sure. Climbing next to a crystal clear mountain stream, below snow capped peaks was nothing short of idyllic. Add in the amazing three move power fest Fake Pamplemoose and you have an absolute winner. I have already decided I'm heading back for another 6 weeks at the end of this year. Time to get training.

Malonke, 7c

Long Distance Runner 7b+/c
Here is a brief tick list from Swizzy: Fake Pamplemoose 8a, The Arete with a Pocket 8a, Marilyn Monroe 8a, Birds 7c (flash), Unnamed 7c (flash), The loneliness of a long distance runner 7b+/c (flash), Molonk 7c, Dr Med Dent 7b+, Volo del Colbri 7b+ (flash) and a heap of other great problems...

Path of Yin, 8a+
Since I have been back it has been hot, seriously hot, but having decided that I would try to do some routes I have been hitting the crag and trying to get as much done as possible. I have been opening up some old accounts and looking to get some of these done before it's bouldering season again. I got on Naughty Boy and immediately felt relieved for all of those power sessions that I had been doing. The moves came much easier, so hopefully that will get a decent shot soon.
I have also had a day at Muline and a day at my old nemesis, the Gallery. Safe to say, it is still steep, the holds gigantic, the moves easy and my ability to red point there is still non existent. Still, it has been fun getting back on a cord. Last night I went out for a post work session with my new housemate Holly, which was a great way to see out a Tuesday. We did a few routes to warm up at the Watchtower, 5 mins from Halls Gap, before I jumped on an old Claw 26. Thankfully retro bolted, I managed to tick it second shot with a head torch. It was wild, really crimpy and dead vertical and pretty unrelenting. Proper old skool. Thanks Mikl...

1 comment:

  1. Simonetti, you are for sure the person on earth that feels more deeply what climbing means. I feel so proud to be your friend. Puta Kev too ;-)