Watching the big boys go at it was a great experience! |
Stepping off a plane in
Tokyo is pretty routine, you cruise through customs, pick up your
bags and then head down to the train station to catch the express
into the city. And this is where it goes straight to defcon 5. The
train station is like stepping into a human ant farm. There are
people everywhere, scurrying around you, past you and almost over
you. However, amid the chaos is unbelievable organisation. Tourist
information booths help the bewildered fools find their way to the
correct train and offer advice on how best to make it to your
destination. Tokyo is an enormous, sprawling metropolis, unlike any
city I have visited before. But the train system makes it a breeze to
get around, even with zero Japanese and a heap of luggage, the trip
is not too arduous, though a packed Tokyo train is quite an
experience. The words jammed in like sardines barely does it justice.
You cannot move and it is a fight to not get caught up with the human
tide as people try to decamp, just hold a handle, plant your feet and
let the tide break around you. We arrive at our ryokan feeling a
little washed out, it's evening time, I'm hungry and a little
bedraggled. A ryokan is a traditional guesthouse, you sleep on tatami
mats, the rooms are tiny, but its cost effective, comfortable and
they have their own version of an onsen (Japanese bath) upstairs. We
get freshened up and hit the streets to find some food. I'm not quite
sure what the story is, but it seems that there is a restaurant or a
hairdressers in every second shop, so if you have hair (unlike me) or
are hungry (definitely me), you have enough choice to make you walk
on and on just to see what is available. The options for food are
endless, mostly you can be lead by pictures, but every now and then
its great to just jump in, go native and see what happens...
After a couple of big
days in Tokyo, having the sensory overload that one expects, as well
as checking out some sweet sumo action, it's time to head to the
blissful countryside and get to grips with some blocs. We had a
little trouble with car rentals, mostly that we couldn't rent a car
from any company without an international drivers license. Now, I
have rented cars in at least 10 different countries all around the
world and have never had to show an international license before.
But, if there is one thing that the Japanese love, it's rules. And,
the rules say that you must present your international license to
hire a car, so it's back to the train for us. I was pretty pissed and
a little apprehensive about catching the train, it involved 3 changes
and then a phone call to the hotel in the mountains to ask someone to
come and pick us up. I needn't have worried though, a little prep
with google maps and a subway ride to Shinjuku station and we were on
our way. All up it was a pretty pleasant journey, great views of Mt
Fuji and very clean and comfy trains. We made it to our destination
and exited the train. We were essentially in the middle of an
industrial farm town. I went off hunting for supplies, as we had been
pre warned that lunch and breakfast food was in short supply up in
the mountains. I got robbed blind by a seemingly lovely old lady who
cackled through the whole exchange, but ended up with most of what we
needed. Next up was the phone call that I had been dreading. I was
unsure what I was going to say and how well our little parley was
going to go, but after lots of nodding and saying hai, I hung up and
hoped for the best. 20 minutes later our ride showed. Result! Kimpu
Sansou was to be our home for the next week and on first impressions
it was a little like stepping into the Shining. It was a large place,
devoid of other guests, big, old and airy. Holy Shit. What had I done? But,
after a cursory glance at our room, we dropped our kit and went to
check out the boulders.
I gotta admit that I
was a little underwhelmed to begin with, the boulders seemed few and
far between and there were no real lines to speak of. I had purchased
the guidebook in advance from Japanese Amazon, but it didn't help
much, since it was entirely in Japanese with only a few pictures and
indecipherable topos. Lucky I had purchased two copies by mistake and
at an exorbitant cost... We only had an hour or two of light left and
hadn't organised to hire pads until the following day, so we took the
opportunity to scope out the hotel a little better and make use of
their bangin Onsen, resplendent with mountain views. Dinner followed,
a banquet of assorted classics, miso to begin, some sashimi, a whole
char grilled fish, some other side plates and of course, the
obligatory rice. A couple of Asahi and some sake to boot and I was
primed for bed. Morning comes early to the mountains and that's not
some romantic, coloured view of alpine starts or anything. It starts
to get light at around 3am, which is not something that I am used to,
especially when the curtains look and act like rice paper. So by 7am
I was itching to get cracking.
We hit the blocs early
and started warming up. First thoughts were of a mix between Squamish
and Castle Hill, big rounded blocs, with soft texture and not much
friction in places. Warming up was fun, we found some great little
classics and seemed to get by ok. There were a couple of things that
I had spied some local crew having a lash at that looked a little
harder, so we went and had a look. Temperatures were rising, but it
didn't seem that warm, but when I went to try the first, highball
classic, I was dismayed to feel just how slick the holds felt. I had
a few goes and had my ass kicked off each time. I started to feel a
little despondent, I was weak, too much ramen, too many asahi and
anyway, my wrist hurt, so whatever. Oh and the conditions sucked. I
had a little chat with myself and decided I would give it a couple
more goes. Maybe give it a brush and then give the holds a couple of
minutes to cool off and then have another lash. Turned out, it was a
good idea and I soon found myself reaching for the top holds and
standing on top of the bloc. That's more like it, time to try some
harder things. We did a few other bits and pieces before retreating
to the hotel for a bath, beer and dinner. As we were dining, a random
English guy wandered in and started having a little yarn with us.
Thankfully he had some good knowledge of where some of the more
popular blocs were and gave us a bit more of an idea of the areas
where we should be heading.
The buffet at the Hotel was pretty awesome after a big day, the Asahi was better though. |
Another classic in Ogawayama, river of forgetfulness I think it's called. |
Easily the coldest swim I have ever had, but a stunning mountain river. |
A sobering view of ground zero in Hiroshima |
Turns out most of the
better blocs were located down next to the river, all of about 100
metres from our room. Safe to say, we spent most of the next 5 days
bouldering next to one of the most pristine mountain rivers that I
have ever seen. The blocs are more of the river washed varietal, so
the texture is smoother and some of the footers slicker than a grease
trap, but it was still a lot of fun. It seemed that this was the most
popular spot, especially on a weekend, where dozens of boulderers
would descend and set up camp. There are some classic lines on some
pretty big blocs, many of which have spicy topouts, which is one of
the things that I normally love, however when the pads you have hired
are as thin as a supermodel and your spotter weighs in under 50kilos,
it sows a little doubt in your mind. I still had very little idea
about names and grades, but that was kind of liberating. It was nice
to just pick a line and start going for it, not being limited by how
hard or easy something was. I got pointed in the direction of a
couple of harder lines by one of the local guys who was pretty
psyched to try them with me. We did one stellar problem on the bank
of the river, traversing along the front side of the bloc on
desperate slopers and some slick crimps before a high top out above
an ankle snapping landing. It was a great feeling to have to try
really hard on all of the moves. I had a nightmare with the start,
good holds through a roof, but with a techy toe hook on polished rock
that I just couldn't manage to make stay where I wanted it to. Being
the tech wizard that I am, I eventually figured out a slightly
different sequence that made the hook work for me and kept myself
together for the rest of the moves. Another riverside classic done.
The week we spent in Ogawayama was great, sure, it's not one of the
must do destinations for any aspiring rock jock, but if you find
yourself in Japan and are desperate to crush then it is one of the
more beautiful places to pass a week, that is for sure. There is
other climbing nearby that looks to be as good or possibly better,
but without a car it was a no go. Mount Mizugaki is the name and is
on the list for my next visit for sure.
Another contender for best problem! |
So, down to the nitty
gritty. How to get there, where to stay, blah blah blah. So, it's
best to fly into Tokyo, from there it's all available to you. You can
either hire a car from one of the larger train stations, ideally a
little toward the west of the city, or you can catch the train and
get the pick up from the hotel. Whilst having a phone conversation is
not the easiest, if you email the hotel and they have a rough
estimate of your arrival time, it should all run smoothly. It's best
in May, but not the first week, as that's Golden Week, so much of the
country is on holidays and therefore accommodation is at a premium
and there are people everywhere. Ogawayama is not just a bouldering
venue, there are walkers, route climbers and fly fisherman vying for
space, so avoid Golden Week and visit before or after. Just remember,
you are at 1500 metres, so it gets proper cold, be prepared for some
chilly evenings, especially if you choose to camp, rather than stay
in the hotel.
For the train journey,
you need to get to Shinjuku Station, from here, it's the Chuo Line
Limited Express to Kobuchizawa Station, change and then head to the
Shinano-Kawakami Station which is on The Koumi line heading to
Matsumoto. Get off and head for the phone booth. Trains run
frequently and on time. If you are using a JR pass (which you have to
buy before you get to Japan and have delivered by mai), it's free,
otherwise it's somewhere in the vicinity of 6,500 yen or $75AUD one
way. All up with smooth changeovers it's about a 3 hour journey. Make
sure you pack lots of snack food for the week and all of the food
that you need if you are camping. The hotel sells a limited amount of
random as shit snacks, but best to bring your own. Also, word to the wise
here, if you are staying at the hotel, the breakfast and dinners are
included in the price, but you can negotiate to have both, one or
neither. I suggest sticking with dinner, but giving brekkie the
flick. Rather, bring some muesli etc and get friendly with the chef,
who will allow you to store yoghurt and milk in the fridge. Also,
bring your own coffee maker and supply. If you are like me and will
murder someone merely for breathing in the morning before caffeine,
you will be surrounded by corpses in no time, as they neither stock
nor supply coffee. You've been warned!!! On the upside, you can buy
as much beer and sake as you like for not much and it feels
completely civil to have an ice cold asahi at 3 in the afternoon out
of the vending machine in the lobby. Pads can be hired for around $10
a day, but they are pretty old and well worn. However, if you have to
catch trains in Tokyo, bringing pads is going to be somewhat of a
nightmare, you decide. Book them in advance by email.
Here's the details for
the lodge, 546-2 Kawahake, Kawakami, Minamisaku District, Nagano
Prefecture 384-1401, +81267992428, yoyaku@kawakami.or.jp