tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8573470180664669632024-03-13T11:14:28.593+11:00blockmonsterJust some reports and thoughts of what is happening in my little world and, hopefully, that of my friends.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.comBlogger85125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-66586851061794383012016-06-17T11:39:00.001+10:002016-06-20T07:48:49.932+10:00Ogawayama - Japan<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYeM-Nv9fsfWvaPnqJK1D8vkXeRJonKcs7Jvblp1-fYuLBESORaktkF9oOoh9IajS6PPXqlCB6HSMoOXfuPlbIjVhs9bPUcIJv_20cGivjzV-US3qrw2evosEY_m8RnocYDq6Gn1hHA6U/s1600/IMG_5917.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYeM-Nv9fsfWvaPnqJK1D8vkXeRJonKcs7Jvblp1-fYuLBESORaktkF9oOoh9IajS6PPXqlCB6HSMoOXfuPlbIjVhs9bPUcIJv_20cGivjzV-US3qrw2evosEY_m8RnocYDq6Gn1hHA6U/s320/IMG_5917.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Watching the big boys go at it was a great experience!</td></tr>
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Stepping off a plane in
Tokyo is pretty routine, you cruise through customs, pick up your
bags and then head down to the train station to catch the express
into the city. And this is where it goes straight to defcon 5. The
train station is like stepping into a human ant farm. There are
people everywhere, scurrying around you, past you and almost over
you. However, amid the chaos is unbelievable organisation. Tourist
information booths help the bewildered fools find their way to the
correct train and offer advice on how best to make it to your
destination. Tokyo is an enormous, sprawling metropolis, unlike any
city I have visited before. But the train system makes it a breeze to
get around, even with zero Japanese and a heap of luggage, the trip
is not too arduous, though a packed Tokyo train is quite an
experience. The words jammed in like sardines barely does it justice.
You cannot move and it is a fight to not get caught up with the human
tide as people try to decamp, just hold a handle, plant your feet and
let the tide break around you. We arrive at our ryokan feeling a
little washed out, it's evening time, I'm hungry and a little
bedraggled. A ryokan is a traditional guesthouse, you sleep on tatami
mats, the rooms are tiny, but its cost effective, comfortable and
they have their own version of an onsen (Japanese bath) upstairs. We
get freshened up and hit the streets to find some food. I'm not quite
sure what the story is, but it seems that there is a restaurant or a
hairdressers in every second shop, so if you have hair (unlike me) or
are hungry (definitely me), you have enough choice to make you walk
on and on just to see what is available. The options for food are
endless, mostly you can be lead by pictures, but every now and then
its great to just jump in, go native and see what happens...</div>
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After a couple of big
days in Tokyo, having the sensory overload that one expects, as well
as checking out some sweet sumo action, it's time to head to the
blissful countryside and get to grips with some blocs. We had a
little trouble with car rentals, mostly that we couldn't rent a car
from any company without an international drivers license. Now, I
have rented cars in at least 10 different countries all around the
world and have never had to show an international license before.
But, if there is one thing that the Japanese love, it's rules. And,
the rules say that you must present your international license to
hire a car, so it's back to the train for us. I was pretty pissed and
a little apprehensive about catching the train, it involved 3 changes
and then a phone call to the hotel in the mountains to ask someone to
come and pick us up. I needn't have worried though, a little prep
with google maps and a subway ride to Shinjuku station and we were on
our way. All up it was a pretty pleasant journey, great views of Mt
Fuji and very clean and comfy trains. We made it to our destination
and exited the train. We were essentially in the middle of an
industrial farm town. I went off hunting for supplies, as we had been
pre warned that lunch and breakfast food was in short supply up in
the mountains. I got robbed blind by a seemingly lovely old lady who
cackled through the whole exchange, but ended up with most of what we
needed. Next up was the phone call that I had been dreading. I was
unsure what I was going to say and how well our little parley was
going to go, but after lots of nodding and saying hai, I hung up and
hoped for the best. 20 minutes later our ride showed. Result! Kimpu
Sansou was to be our home for the next week and on first impressions
it was a little like stepping into the Shining. It was a large place,
devoid of other guests, big, old and airy. Holy Shit. What had I done? But,
after a cursory glance at our room, we dropped our kit and went to
check out the boulders.
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I gotta admit that I
was a little underwhelmed to begin with, the boulders seemed few and
far between and there were no real lines to speak of. I had purchased
the guidebook in advance from Japanese Amazon, but it didn't help
much, since it was entirely in Japanese with only a few pictures and
indecipherable topos. Lucky I had purchased two copies by mistake and
at an exorbitant cost... We only had an hour or two of light left and
hadn't organised to hire pads until the following day, so we took the
opportunity to scope out the hotel a little better and make use of
their bangin Onsen, resplendent with mountain views. Dinner followed,
a banquet of assorted classics, miso to begin, some sashimi, a whole
char grilled fish, some other side plates and of course, the
obligatory rice. A couple of Asahi and some sake to boot and I was
primed for bed. Morning comes early to the mountains and that's not
some romantic, coloured view of alpine starts or anything. It starts
to get light at around 3am, which is not something that I am used to,
especially when the curtains look and act like rice paper. So by 7am
I was itching to get cracking.</div>
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We hit the blocs early
and started warming up. First thoughts were of a mix between Squamish
and Castle Hill, big rounded blocs, with soft texture and not much
friction in places. Warming up was fun, we found some great little
classics and seemed to get by ok. There were a couple of things that
I had spied some local crew having a lash at that looked a little
harder, so we went and had a look. Temperatures were rising, but it
didn't seem that warm, but when I went to try the first, highball
classic, I was dismayed to feel just how slick the holds felt. I had
a few goes and had my ass kicked off each time. I started to feel a
little despondent, I was weak, too much ramen, too many asahi and
anyway, my wrist hurt, so whatever. Oh and the conditions sucked. I
had a little chat with myself and decided I would give it a couple
more goes. Maybe give it a brush and then give the holds a couple of
minutes to cool off and then have another lash. Turned out, it was a
good idea and I soon found myself reaching for the top holds and
standing on top of the bloc. That's more like it, time to try some
harder things. We did a few other bits and pieces before retreating
to the hotel for a bath, beer and dinner. As we were dining, a random
English guy wandered in and started having a little yarn with us.
Thankfully he had some good knowledge of where some of the more
popular blocs were and gave us a bit more of an idea of the areas
where we should be heading.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The buffet at the Hotel was pretty awesome after a big day, the Asahi was better though.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipNnVpXG7q0XOVLsu3bcBiZCwYvn55bVljp0Tb1KVbqevEdQVtsKR5S8_9sd-08fsmJV-5cjQNE0jhNNc-IAGiERsEPftaK0jiNbOxvvWVm96BgBRZADEA2rHFLFTKKUivoLrc69J2fYI/s1600/IMG_3973.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipNnVpXG7q0XOVLsu3bcBiZCwYvn55bVljp0Tb1KVbqevEdQVtsKR5S8_9sd-08fsmJV-5cjQNE0jhNNc-IAGiERsEPftaK0jiNbOxvvWVm96BgBRZADEA2rHFLFTKKUivoLrc69J2fYI/s320/IMG_3973.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My favourite problem from the trip, no idea on name etc, but a great line.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another classic in Ogawayama, river of forgetfulness I think it's called.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsXL9Xp-jpxRjeboKc0ie5YQ_wZpizsMeP2Wc1ZunVL_EVh4ZfZVVOgqwLf9dPOoWHH8n26FMgX0Kh8z1F3qfV_LiKJdVbTYwhKTym3ckM-aG2ExKqLPM-wjLhGdBF8SM-jKu9WRmdyZE/s1600/IMG_4916.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsXL9Xp-jpxRjeboKc0ie5YQ_wZpizsMeP2Wc1ZunVL_EVh4ZfZVVOgqwLf9dPOoWHH8n26FMgX0Kh8z1F3qfV_LiKJdVbTYwhKTym3ckM-aG2ExKqLPM-wjLhGdBF8SM-jKu9WRmdyZE/s320/IMG_4916.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Easily the coldest swim I have ever had, but a stunning mountain river.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A sobering view of ground zero in Hiroshima</td></tr>
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Turns out most of the
better blocs were located down next to the river, all of about 100
metres from our room. Safe to say, we spent most of the next 5 days
bouldering next to one of the most pristine mountain rivers that I
have ever seen. The blocs are more of the river washed varietal, so
the texture is smoother and some of the footers slicker than a grease
trap, but it was still a lot of fun. It seemed that this was the most
popular spot, especially on a weekend, where dozens of boulderers
would descend and set up camp. There are some classic lines on some
pretty big blocs, many of which have spicy topouts, which is one of
the things that I normally love, however when the pads you have hired
are as thin as a supermodel and your spotter weighs in under 50kilos,
it sows a little doubt in your mind. I still had very little idea
about names and grades, but that was kind of liberating. It was nice
to just pick a line and start going for it, not being limited by how
hard or easy something was. I got pointed in the direction of a
couple of harder lines by one of the local guys who was pretty
psyched to try them with me. We did one stellar problem on the bank
of the river, traversing along the front side of the bloc on
desperate slopers and some slick crimps before a high top out above
an ankle snapping landing. It was a great feeling to have to try
really hard on all of the moves. I had a nightmare with the start,
good holds through a roof, but with a techy toe hook on polished rock
that I just couldn't manage to make stay where I wanted it to. Being
the tech wizard that I am, I eventually figured out a slightly
different sequence that made the hook work for me and kept myself
together for the rest of the moves. Another riverside classic done.
The week we spent in Ogawayama was great, sure, it's not one of the
must do destinations for any aspiring rock jock, but if you find
yourself in Japan and are desperate to crush then it is one of the
more beautiful places to pass a week, that is for sure. There is
other climbing nearby that looks to be as good or possibly better,
but without a car it was a no go. Mount Mizugaki is the name and is
on the list for my next visit for sure.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another contender for best problem!</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxh01-8qz6u6j_gvh8Y2KWEKWNXC9UrmNNa9w8hoPlHyM7dMB9QJxFckNFWcKbEoT0lAxl56qlw_7HhPE1H-5b6VTlhtIUqpxA73_mFNMLgd24df7C0ouNvbqn0Vybx0CPzr2MNbUkKGQ/s1600/IMG_4104.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxh01-8qz6u6j_gvh8Y2KWEKWNXC9UrmNNa9w8hoPlHyM7dMB9QJxFckNFWcKbEoT0lAxl56qlw_7HhPE1H-5b6VTlhtIUqpxA73_mFNMLgd24df7C0ouNvbqn0Vybx0CPzr2MNbUkKGQ/s320/IMG_4104.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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So, down to the nitty
gritty. How to get there, where to stay, blah blah blah. So, it's
best to fly into Tokyo, from there it's all available to you. You can
either hire a car from one of the larger train stations, ideally a
little toward the west of the city, or you can catch the train and
get the pick up from the hotel. Whilst having a phone conversation is
not the easiest, if you email the hotel and they have a rough
estimate of your arrival time, it should all run smoothly. It's best
in May, but not the first week, as that's Golden Week, so much of the
country is on holidays and therefore accommodation is at a premium
and there are people everywhere. Ogawayama is not just a bouldering
venue, there are walkers, route climbers and fly fisherman vying for
space, so avoid Golden Week and visit before or after. Just remember,
you are at 1500 metres, so it gets proper cold, be prepared for some
chilly evenings, especially if you choose to camp, rather than stay
in the hotel.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgING7_Dlc4aEbkqeIgJb6F0ObXEuMZBw8yfkI9GDMH7OekHNW1cy_2gkEGCuWh6iuOxR2QtDuO4MXv-2Dm2BSOVuk-jnpEPNS9Bp1zuqcUu_LswO9Q5b2ccH-ssJKQwm87SHkTwGrO8X0/s1600/IMG_4966.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgING7_Dlc4aEbkqeIgJb6F0ObXEuMZBw8yfkI9GDMH7OekHNW1cy_2gkEGCuWh6iuOxR2QtDuO4MXv-2Dm2BSOVuk-jnpEPNS9Bp1zuqcUu_LswO9Q5b2ccH-ssJKQwm87SHkTwGrO8X0/s320/IMG_4966.JPG" width="320" /></a>For the train journey,
you need to get to Shinjuku Station, from here, it's the Chuo Line
Limited Express to Kobuchizawa Station, change and then head to the
Shinano-Kawakami Station which is on The Koumi line heading to
Matsumoto. Get off and head for the phone booth. Trains run
frequently and on time. If you are using a JR pass (which you have to
buy before you get to Japan and have delivered by mai), it's free,
otherwise it's somewhere in the vicinity of 6,500 yen or $75AUD one
way. All up with smooth changeovers it's about a 3 hour journey. Make
sure you pack lots of snack food for the week and all of the food
that you need if you are camping. The hotel sells a limited amount of
random as shit snacks, but best to bring your own. Also, word to the wise
here, if you are staying at the hotel, the breakfast and dinners are
included in the price, but you can negotiate to have both, one or
neither. I suggest sticking with dinner, but giving brekkie the
flick. Rather, bring some muesli etc and get friendly with the chef,
who will allow you to store yoghurt and milk in the fridge. Also,
bring your own coffee maker and supply. If you are like me and will
murder someone merely for breathing in the morning before caffeine,
you will be surrounded by corpses in no time, as they neither stock
nor supply coffee. You've been warned!!! On the upside, you can buy
as much beer and sake as you like for not much and it feels
completely civil to have an ice cold asahi at 3 in the afternoon out
of the vending machine in the lobby. Pads can be hired for around $10
a day, but they are pretty old and well worn. However, if you have to
catch trains in Tokyo, bringing pads is going to be somewhat of a
nightmare, you decide. Book them in advance by email.</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Here's the details for
the lodge, 546-2 Kawahake, Kawakami, Minamisaku District, Nagano
Prefecture 384-1401, +81267992428, <span style="color: navy;"><span lang="zxx"><u><a href="mailto:yoyaku@kawakami.or.jp">yoyaku@kawakami.or.jp</a></u></span></span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-40776804084230166032015-05-21T10:34:00.000+10:002015-05-21T10:34:29.634+10:00New Zealand <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIKX5cQEOxVnPlnH4PZvw5CB50lZCuN5o77VbNr6KsPxsUF9qDYpNAc6q5hfVpEQxa9i7WEjM2If2I5EE1x0PlqCs5YdKsdDVsDf8Rmc1gTKnvgzRLIymJFhZikIhbBGug_XcdDeouhXw/s1600/Ronin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIKX5cQEOxVnPlnH4PZvw5CB50lZCuN5o77VbNr6KsPxsUF9qDYpNAc6q5hfVpEQxa9i7WEjM2If2I5EE1x0PlqCs5YdKsdDVsDf8Rmc1gTKnvgzRLIymJFhZikIhbBGug_XcdDeouhXw/s320/Ronin.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ronin</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7JAGy8Dt9OA-TWb4kzD3G0nY63XFAOG-qbJKjKHyqWNFkIk81j4x794W0FWMAmZzojQDnwSX9wAQl1f3gSPk8OCSwCYRteU04-EkkTUw8A_wtkU7XmLe-vWW1OUr0JLsjFa7bhcwp6yA/s1600/annie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7JAGy8Dt9OA-TWb4kzD3G0nY63XFAOG-qbJKjKHyqWNFkIk81j4x794W0FWMAmZzojQDnwSX9wAQl1f3gSPk8OCSwCYRteU04-EkkTUw8A_wtkU7XmLe-vWW1OUr0JLsjFa7bhcwp6yA/s320/annie.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Annie Oakley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIKX5cQEOxVnPlnH4PZvw5CB50lZCuN5o77VbNr6KsPxsUF9qDYpNAc6q5hfVpEQxa9i7WEjM2If2I5EE1x0PlqCs5YdKsdDVsDf8Rmc1gTKnvgzRLIymJFhZikIhbBGug_XcdDeouhXw/s1600/Ronin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7JAGy8Dt9OA-TWb4kzD3G0nY63XFAOG-qbJKjKHyqWNFkIk81j4x794W0FWMAmZzojQDnwSX9wAQl1f3gSPk8OCSwCYRteU04-EkkTUw8A_wtkU7XmLe-vWW1OUr0JLsjFa7bhcwp6yA/s1600/annie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white;"></span></a><span style="background-color: black; color: white;"></span><span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', 'Bitstream Charter', Times, serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px;">It had been a long time between visits, not since 2008 had I been back to Castle Hill. I was well psyched to get back there. Previously, I had visited a bunch of times, always with a big crew of mates, partying hard and egging each other onward and upward on the invariably high and mostly tricky problems that grace this incredibly beautiful area on New Zealand's South Island. This was going to be a slightly different trip, just my girlfriend and I, heading away for a well-earned break after a hectic summer in the restaurant. Obviously a climbing trip still, but with a pretty healthy focus on chilling out and enjoying ourselves.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE-cJj3sFzPmAL6F0yr3MoPFU1Dj10UVoxTHx9LWatlzorSvbJ2UpR9KPEfHjlcv9-aRp_RuEr-QxZG1VAXvELp8Updsf4XA8roEaOEowFs5O7WdHS5Q6xVnga_HRx5QtiihgFPy_NdHs/s1600/amy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE-cJj3sFzPmAL6F0yr3MoPFU1Dj10UVoxTHx9LWatlzorSvbJ2UpR9KPEfHjlcv9-aRp_RuEr-QxZG1VAXvELp8Updsf4XA8roEaOEowFs5O7WdHS5Q6xVnga_HRx5QtiihgFPy_NdHs/s200/amy.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqpwhm-29Z0iK0Q4eOPRvYGN9vnvuaVqyboG4p0h22a1C08PMG84KjVxxyTxeFosmeB8-D2jOjkk-xpZMX7Kr1V9gXWP9f1KTwK6gcSwD1IJwTaHr_jOTuY_h8B8H3m44O20hVpnESewU/s1600/creek.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqpwhm-29Z0iK0Q4eOPRvYGN9vnvuaVqyboG4p0h22a1C08PMG84KjVxxyTxeFosmeB8-D2jOjkk-xpZMX7Kr1V9gXWP9f1KTwK6gcSwD1IJwTaHr_jOTuY_h8B8H3m44O20hVpnESewU/s200/creek.jpg" width="200" /></a> </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8SHFCfcsH8dzU6ZjNWD1zjFraYuhOtZqRCzZLjgyFoygKVcqTIfXjNurHWNpAUs7d9uQsOXG0uB2hEknM359WpNUqGWckXMVveVxJgIlKHisnzZdhR9g5vSvDtK5cQA91BgdwSXukgmA/s1600/high.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8SHFCfcsH8dzU6ZjNWD1zjFraYuhOtZqRCzZLjgyFoygKVcqTIfXjNurHWNpAUs7d9uQsOXG0uB2hEknM359WpNUqGWckXMVveVxJgIlKHisnzZdhR9g5vSvDtK5cQA91BgdwSXukgmA/s200/high.jpg" width="200" /></a></span></div>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix5Fn3HyEt4TT9SXo152IXd0hkT_se9oudQ41CyEBQ-YNKJcZdrZVlGh8v5O65h_byQlRzQqAfpIjaKiX3edbvrYmGfYwEWoCb9FBBBTDPD5OXs_oKaI3YorxIgTsOJs_3YlVPDsfbdr8/s1600/house.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix5Fn3HyEt4TT9SXo152IXd0hkT_se9oudQ41CyEBQ-YNKJcZdrZVlGh8v5O65h_byQlRzQqAfpIjaKiX3edbvrYmGfYwEWoCb9FBBBTDPD5OXs_oKaI3YorxIgTsOJs_3YlVPDsfbdr8/s200/house.jpg" width="200" /></a> </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUFMZFMBpSxzzqLdOPs9cMrXywVUqUO9HG8NNIbOhExpOFGeYoVCUxuK0jp5n4oaTy8E0ui3Ddkj-FdV0Y-yZ499oJpH6_FtUg0po3-5Z3r04HuSUG6zVCNOLDHGPbmUNVfmZAC1ebRVs/s1600/thinwhiteline.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUFMZFMBpSxzzqLdOPs9cMrXywVUqUO9HG8NNIbOhExpOFGeYoVCUxuK0jp5n4oaTy8E0ui3Ddkj-FdV0Y-yZ499oJpH6_FtUg0po3-5Z3r04HuSUG6zVCNOLDHGPbmUNVfmZAC1ebRVs/s200/thinwhiteline.jpg" width="200" /></a></span></div>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGBkz3p83taGp3hghJMw4yV0KPcYdx4KwmIBLm4fQ3kXrE50BC5_9H0s-_dfeEphlAK5r2sjPNN1LcDb8iLc7onlEnqwqxuOdAMrE8s-96CVTF5tpqldlmSynyDyYUZ_UcT77wnqfMjLw/s1600/IMG_2961.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGBkz3p83taGp3hghJMw4yV0KPcYdx4KwmIBLm4fQ3kXrE50BC5_9H0s-_dfeEphlAK5r2sjPNN1LcDb8iLc7onlEnqwqxuOdAMrE8s-96CVTF5tpqldlmSynyDyYUZ_UcT77wnqfMjLw/s200/IMG_2961.JPG" width="200" /></a> </span><br />
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">It didn't start well. Flying in from two different cities, we had coordinated our flights to within 15 mins of each other. Sadly, with the 50 year storm pounding Sydney, Amy's flight was delayed by more than 3 hours, leaving me with some pretty serious silver tongued work to do in Christchurch. Convincing a rental car company to hand over a car in someone else's name is quite a task, not to mention purchasing 10 days worth of food and drink and squeezing it all, along with two pads into a Mazda 2, the Aussie equivalent of the classic fiat punto rental, ie. minuscule and as powerful as an aging gritstone climber... (Apologies to Adam Long for that dig)...</span></div>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', 'Bitstream Charter', Times, serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px;">Anyway, by the time she arrived, the poor lass was exhausted, apologetic and mildly aggrieved. Castle hill village is about an hour and change from the airport and in daylight is a spectacular drive into the southern alps, a very European vista enticing you the entire way. However, at night, in heavy fog, it is dangerous, slow and about as exciting as a speed climbing contest. Thankfully our accommodation was amazing, a cool little two bedroom house with an incredible view of the mountains and all of a 3 minute drive from the crag.</span><br style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', 'Bitstream Charter', Times, serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px;" /><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', 'Bitstream Charter', Times, serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px;">We awoke to glorious sunshine, vivid colors and psyched out of our tiny minds to lay our hands on some rock. This lasted for about half an hour, enough time to walk into the crag and warm up. I chose to visit one of the classic areas at the back of spittle hill, one of the two main areas that make up castle hill. For those not in the know, the rock is limestone, and limestone gets quite polished over time, especially as the effect is compounded on boulders. We started on a classic highball called beautiful edges, a stunning face climb with a crucial pinch for your right hand near the top. As I transferred my weight across on to my left foot to squeeze the pinch, I heard a noise that I had never heard from a hand hold before, a loud squeaking, almost like fingernails on a chalkboard. The hold was so polished that my hand actually created the sound. Slightly unnerving to say the least. It didn't get much better as we toured around, most of the problems that I had done before felt a couple of grades harder and some of them felt unclimbable. I might be a bit spoilt by the amazing rock that the grampians has to offer, but it was ridiculous. I don't mind getting my arse kicked by the rock (not entirely true), but when it's because there is no friction I get pretty disheartened pretty quickly.</span><br style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', 'Bitstream Charter', Times, serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px;" /><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', 'Bitstream Charter', Times, serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px;">We decided that we would be better off venturing a little further afield. We had been told of an area called wuthering heights, situated high up on a hill about 15 minutes further on from quantum and spittle. After enduring the calf busting walk, we were greeted by towering blocs, grassy landings and not another soul in sight. But, best of all, the blocs still had friction and some lovely grainy texture. We spent the next three days throwing ourselves at some of the classic problems that this area offers, including Ronin, the Thin White Line, Johnny Mo and Annie Oakley. As with the rest of castle hill, none of these problems are easy pickings, most are technical, tall and contain some form of trickery that will confound any would be ascensionist. Most notably of these was Annie Oakley, a tall v7 with a stand start. It looked pretty obvious and was a striking feature that I was eager to crush. Anywhere else in the world and I would consider this easy pickings, but nope, not NZ. I threw myself repeatedly at it, falling off the same move over and over. I was becoming increasingly frustrated, Amy had suggested using one of the obvious crimps as an under cling about 10 attempts before, which I had dismissed, almost scornfully. As usual, I was forced to eat humble pie, a quick transition with high footer and I slapped the top sloper comfortably. Lesson learned, do as suggested...</span><br style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', 'Bitstream Charter', Times, serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px;" /><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', 'Bitstream Charter', Times, serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px;">As was inevitable on any trip, after five cracking days, we were greeted by torrential rain on the sixth. To be honest, I was pretty grateful. Five days on, trying really physical problems, was more than enough for me. I could barely raise myself from bed. So we did a couple of days sightseeing, including driving over to the west coast and also checking out Christchurch. Sadly, Christchurch is still struggling to rebuild four years after the massive quake that reduced much of the city to rubble. Though, there are lots of plans afoot and some pretty cool improvised areas, including a cafe and bar district constructed from shipping containers. Hopefully, it will one days be as beautiful as it once was.</span><br style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', 'Bitstream Charter', Times, serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px;" /><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', 'Bitstream Charter', Times, serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px;">Anyways, it was back to the blocs after that, a day of dodging showers at spittle, a great day at quantum field and a long walk day up to flock hill. Flock is probably the most impressive crag of all, perched on a hill a little ways from the rest of the castle hill, flock is full of towering lines and majestic views. Sadly, it too is somewhat polished, which was a bit surprising, considering the 45 min walk in, but was still an enjoyable day out. Sans guidebook, we wandered around and just climbed a bunch of great lines, in a stunning locale.</span><br style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', 'Bitstream Charter', Times, serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px;" /><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', 'Bitstream Charter', Times, serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px;">All in all, a great trip, a little sad to see the rock so damaged, but still a beautiful place for a visit. Plus, it's always nice get a bit of an arse kicking to inspire you to train harder. Anyways, I've got to hit up the fingerboard and get strong for rocklands...</span></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-26608824499684985302015-02-02T14:20:00.002+11:002015-02-02T14:20:34.688+11:00Moon Interview 2015<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">Here is a copy of the interview that I did this week for the Moon website. Once again, I am very appreciative for all the support that Moon gives me and am super chuffed to be on the team again. Thanks Guys. Show them some support and check out their website and buy some product.</span></div>
<div class="p1">
<a href="http://www.moonclimbing.com/">http://www.moonclimbing.com</a></div>
<div class="p1">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNMfdgEKhdP-piWZUGN-4petQ5gxFQS9ARJtik50rWZ1YQhN_Gd932gEDoQo8U3y0fBX_XbZGS_Pf6JI0_vPykb8mhNJ2i1hIw_indJj4KcEgOFaMznHpU5-poKppnEFRkeD6qa3kLWhQ/s1600/IMG_1768.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNMfdgEKhdP-piWZUGN-4petQ5gxFQS9ARJtik50rWZ1YQhN_Gd932gEDoQo8U3y0fBX_XbZGS_Pf6JI0_vPykb8mhNJ2i1hIw_indJj4KcEgOFaMznHpU5-poKppnEFRkeD6qa3kLWhQ/s1600/IMG_1768.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Making the FA of The Whoop Chute, Area 51, Grampians</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1"><br /></span></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">Ben MOON sent the worlds first ever 9a and you are now part of the MOON team, how will you contribute to the legacy of the MOON brand? </span></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">Sadly, I don’t think that I’ll ever be able to emulate the difficulty of Ben’s routes, but I bring my own unique enthusiasm to the MOON team. I am driven to travel, develop constantly and crush as much as I can, all whilst enjoying myself as much as possible and not getting weighed down too heavily with expectations. </span></div>
<div class="p2">
<span class="s1"></span><br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">Aspirations and ambitions are key drivers for all top climbers. But how do you deal with defeat? </span></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">I just try as hard as I can as often as I can and when that doesn’t work I lose my temper and blame my spotter… Ha Ha. I just try to train for whatever move is stopping me or try to work out another way to do the thing that is holding me back. I spend a lot of time reflecting on sequences and trying to improve them in my mind, so I can do them better on the rock.</span></div>
<div class="p2">
<span class="s1"></span><br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">“Train Hard – Climb Harder” is a MOON motto. Share one of your secrets with us. </span></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">Train hard, but make sure you enjoy the process, if you don’t enjoy it, you won’t improve.</span></div>
<div class="p2">
<span class="s1"></span><br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">What will you change in your training regime for 2015 to improve your climbing standard? </span></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">More finger boarding. My fingers are definitely my weakest point!</span></div>
<div class="p2">
<span class="s1"></span><br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">We all say we climb for fun but be brutally honest what is really driving you? </span></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">I climb for the money and the groupies!!! Really, for me it is what I’ve always done. I have never found anything that I enjoy anywhere near as much as climbing. Being outside in beautiful areas with great friends all around the world is a pretty amazing way to live and I wouldn’t change it for anything.</span></div>
<div class="p2">
<span class="s1"></span><br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">If you have to put a number to your ambitions for 2015 what would that be and are you raising the bar enough to be uncomfortable? </span></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">I think this one answers the next two questions. I’d love to climb some more 8b blocs or maybe an 8b+, but I would much prefer to send some of my long term projects, whether they turn out to be hard is another question entirely. I’m sure once I do them one way, some young punk will find an easy way to repeat it…</span></div>
<div class="p2">
<span class="s1"></span><br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">What is important? To achieve a new grade this year or send a long standing project? </span></div>
<div class="p2">
<span class="s1"></span><br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">Progressing in climbing is impossible with out some sacrifice’s, what is going to have to take a back seat in 2015 in order for you to make that goal happen? </span></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">I’d love to say work was going to suffer, but I’m not sure my business partners would approve!! As usual, I will probably see less of my friends and family than I would like, but that balances out nicely with seeing my climbing friends a whole lot more.</span></div>
<div class="p2">
<span class="s1"></span><br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">What will you do in 2015 to help inspire those who follow MOON? </span></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">I will continue to develop as many blocs as possible in the Grampians and climb as hard as my limited abilities will allow. I’ll also try to write about these in an amusing way, as there are way too many people taking themselves seriously in this little world of ours. And maybe snap a few pics and videos as well. I’m psyched for 2015, I was a bit limited by injury in 2014, so ready for the comeback!!!</span></div>
<div class="p2">
<span class="s1"></span><br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">We all follow climbing gossip and news. What inspired you in 2014 and what pissed you off in 2014? </span></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">Seeing some of the determination of the young up and coming crushers was pretty awesome to watch. Seeing Mirko and Ashima in Rocklands was cool, those guys are punishers. And to meet Megos and see how humble and chilled he was. What a hero.</span></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">On the downside, some of the really well known people who travel professionally did some really shitty stuff, like climbing in closed areas and ignoring requests for them to desist in doing so. Really disappointing from people who should know better!</span></div>
<div class="p2">
<span class="s1"></span><br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">Ok its time to have an opinion. Is it ok to improve the style of a climb and shop off bolts on a route with out asking the FA for permission (given you sent it on natural gear)?</span></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">How much energy does it take to ask the FA their opinion on the matter? If you don’t agree with what they say, then that’s another discussion entirely. If the bolts are completely superfluous, sure lop them off, but if it’s a dangerous route without and people enjoy climbing it with the bolts, let them co-exist…</span></div>
<div class="p2">
<span class="s1"></span><br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">Tell us what you think will be your most ambitious and inspiring projects for 2015.</span></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">I have a long term project in the Grampians that I tried a lot last season. I should have done it, I fell after catching the final hold a couple of times, but totally punted it. Then, I broke part of the crux hold, it’ll still go, but it’s going to be a battle.</span></div>
<div class="p2">
<span class="s1"></span><br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">Tell us what is the most hyped route or boulder you ever climbed that was actually just hyped and not at all that good or as hard as perceived? </span></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">Tough question!! I don’t really have any particular routes or problems that were so bad that they were memorable. However, the whole area of Arco was pretty underwhelming, so polished, as was the machinodromo in El Chorro, total choss heap… </span></div>
<div class="p2">
<span class="s1"></span><br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">Suggest a few routes or problems you think any climber with some self-respect should have on their bucket list. </span></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">Any of my problems would be a good start ;-)</span></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">There’s so many good problems and routes out there, but my favourite is fake pamplemoose in Brione. And End of the Affair at Curbar. Amazing!!</span></div>
<div class="p2">
<span class="s1"></span><br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">Why MOON?</span></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">Ben Moon was my hero when I was growing up, so to be sponsored by him and his company is an honour. I still get excited whenever I get an email from him. Ha Ha.</span></div>
<br />
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">Plus, their kit is A1, great clothes and the best crash pads around!!</span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-33308682564349542582014-08-26T16:23:00.002+10:002014-08-26T16:30:29.257+10:00Rocklands<div style="font-family: Helvetica;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Best 7a in Rocklands?</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 11px;">Well that was pretty fucking awesome! I had reservations about heading to Rocklands, but they were clearly unfounded. What an amazing place it turned out to be. I had always wanted to visit the boulders, which so resembled the sandstone of the Grampians that I know so well. But, it was with some trepidation that I booked my ticket to Cape Town for the start of July. </span></span></div>
</div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">These days my holidays are pretty restricted to a certain time of year. When you have a business that relies heavily on summer tourism, you'd better believe that you aint getting a break until winter comes around. Well, unless you're a complete moron and then you can take holidays whenever you so desire. And when it comes to the middle of the year, there are only so many places that are any good for crushing purposes… North America is pretty much out, much of Europe is steaming. Switzerland is a go, but I have been there a couple of times now, Norway and other scando nations seem like they’d be cool, but it’s a long way and bullshit expensive. </span></div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px;">
<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">So, anyways, South Africa was halfway for my English mates and I and seemed like the perfect place to meet up. Sam and Lu, however had made a wee life change since last I saw them. They had an 18month old maniac in tow, by the name of Arnold. A little blonde wrecking ball with boundless energy and a new found ability to walk. A dangerous combo. We met at the airport and it was fantastic to be hanging out again. We crammed our not insignificant amount of stuff into our hire car and we were away. We didn’t get carjacked on our way out of Cape Town, which was somewhat of a surprise to me. No doubt, any would be attacker was put off by the fact that they would have needed a crow bar and some lube as well as the usual tools of the carjacker trade to pry any of us loose from our cocoon of infinite squeeze.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Cape Town itself is a really spectacular city, with Table Mountain peering down from above, it’s one of the more picturesque places that you can fly into. But, driving away from the city there is not much to look at. The scenery is eerily similar to Australia in a lot of ways, especially the presence of eucalypts, our very own national treasure, that are scattered wantonly along the edges of the paddocks full of grazing sheep. If that doesn’t bring memories of Australia flooding back, then you have clearly never visited our fair shores.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj__867qxei8poNsYkxXTE4ph1siyFNPHgq60ClquguNu3hr5hI8-4nl66cfL-iOd49vG2PnaNtdwWHHxtA_mN0hE_OkMT9sZuF3gQK566k42WSO32S7f_pCr-OX2W4zhgYYcvnjCmt35c/s1600/DSC_9664.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj__867qxei8poNsYkxXTE4ph1siyFNPHgq60ClquguNu3hr5hI8-4nl66cfL-iOd49vG2PnaNtdwWHHxtA_mN0hE_OkMT9sZuF3gQK566k42WSO32S7f_pCr-OX2W4zhgYYcvnjCmt35c/s1600/DSC_9664.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arnie, chief hold brusher</td></tr>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Rocklands is about two and a half hours from Cape Town. We stopped in Clanwilliam to get some supplies, mainly beer and meat, probably the two most popular staples in the South African diet, along with copious amounts and indiscriminate use of MSG. From there you head north into the Pakhuis Pass and some of the most surreal and stunning landscape that you will ever see. Boulders start to appear as you drive steadily towards the pass and before you know it you are in amongst a seemingly never ending cluster of rock, not dissimilar to what some, as yet undiscovered, sandstone planet would look like. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">We arrived at our accommodation just after dark and quickly got ready for a big days climbing, by doing what we do best, getting drunk and catching up on the good old days…</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px;">
<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">We awoke early, mostly thanks to Arnie’s early morning excitement, a behaviour that was repeated pretty much daily for the entirety of the trip. 7 am is not a particularly social time to arise on a climbing holiday, but he didn’t seem to understand, nor care about my objections, no matter how many different ways I phrased them.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7-VD44uQLRrsyQ8MPdgs4qB1QeMYPccB_63zjRLsf-AyXYQOo7en7SVuIknG9fJR2oIbnIuYnw_Aun_EXFJA5dapVWmvZ8sG-Um04UPPWVLkRKEJK3oa_LYX70_cIj_AucHB6XXwVi6k/s1600/timeout2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7-VD44uQLRrsyQ8MPdgs4qB1QeMYPccB_63zjRLsf-AyXYQOo7en7SVuIknG9fJR2oIbnIuYnw_Aun_EXFJA5dapVWmvZ8sG-Um04UPPWVLkRKEJK3oa_LYX70_cIj_AucHB6XXwVi6k/s1600/timeout2.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Timeout, primo 7c</td></tr>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">So, it was out to the boulders with a slightly foggy head, but the usual excitement that accompanies any new adventure into the bouldering wilderness. The fogginess disappeared as we walked in to the first area. I was struck by the beauty of the landscape and how completely different it is to anywhere I had ever been before. Even though the rock resembles closely my beloved Grampians sandstone, it climbed completely differently and it stands openly on flat, sandy bases, unencumbered by spiky bushes and overhanging branches. The texture is grainier and the holds can be surprisingly sharp. It certainly takes a little time to get your skin into condition for some of the problems, something that became sadly apparent the longer the trip went on. Not surprising to people who know me well, I was entirely unprepared for the technical heel hooking and dirty crimps that many of the hard problems contained. I had trained for the grampians. Big moves on good holds with some serious tension. I hadn’t bothered to consult anyone about the actual climbing because it looked the same, it must climb the same. Ah well, whatever, it was still amazing, it just took a little longer than it should have to get into the zone. But, even days where you were not getting much done, it was hard not to be happy just being there. I was in Africa after all. Usually I rant on about some problem that took me ages or some particular line that stood out in my mind above all others, but that seems like a tough ask when it comes to Rocklands. There are so many proud lines and some of my favourite problems weren’t even close to the hardest ticks. And the best bit is that I barely scratched the surface, paving the way nicely for another visit in 2015. I can barely contain my excitement already, thoughts of grippy sandstone overwhelm me at random moments throughout the day. The tough bit is going to be convincing my business partners that a four week break is not nearly long enough!</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">It’s kind of hard to try exactly pin point what the best areas or the best problems were, so here is a list of some of the cooler stuff that I dragged my batty up over the course of the trip:</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiva0nVL61jtZOFWNmBYvz3USSCj8tkx5R266Pkolyi_PyADEuGiDrXpGmWvZVKOYJYXICTFpbMNjQbiuHz_oAznyxQXOYd5qVPf8OXgkp2pyBCQbrOsnxbAo5x9AXpaeBoo5qov5030Bg/s1600/HoleInOne.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiva0nVL61jtZOFWNmBYvz3USSCj8tkx5R266Pkolyi_PyADEuGiDrXpGmWvZVKOYJYXICTFpbMNjQbiuHz_oAznyxQXOYd5qVPf8OXgkp2pyBCQbrOsnxbAo5x9AXpaeBoo5qov5030Bg/s1600/HoleInOne.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hole in One, 7c+, so much fun!!</td></tr>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px;">
<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">No late benders, 8a</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Shallow cave, 8a</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">No late tenders, 7c+</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Hole in One, 7c+ (Awesome dyno)</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Purple Nipple Clan, 8a</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Cedar Spine, 7c (One of the best aretes anywhere)</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Minki, 7b</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Timeout, 7c</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Shadows of Ourselves, 7c</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Born into Struggle, 7b+</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Stalker on the Horizon, 8a but felt 7c</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">The Rhino 7b+ FUN!!</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Vlad the Impaler, 7c</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Last Day in Paradise, 7c Flash</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Question of Balance, 7b</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZFVcxYtyrmck4-2YPKzAK5sbtBH53GqzgEnnF9j0gVfEJSKjVrJt8-ezURjQ06Rvk9pvCQSHrl6A6E-iB5Uk-RuI5k5gMipybWQpBHm9s4NVnW7ekzY63o-Q4LbaaCe9mlZMHHoog_Ss/s1600/DSC_1607.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZFVcxYtyrmck4-2YPKzAK5sbtBH53GqzgEnnF9j0gVfEJSKjVrJt8-ezURjQ06Rvk9pvCQSHrl6A6E-iB5Uk-RuI5k5gMipybWQpBHm9s4NVnW7ekzY63o-Q4LbaaCe9mlZMHHoog_Ss/s1600/DSC_1607.jpg" height="211" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The crew, beachside</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht4sZCR8PlGPnQXRzW2WVHONtXICMjs6xgT9p9LwGJ0tbSA1Gb6LY0unIsr5Xb2Nyb3eaIoS-RRPL4TGRCl8A69GJybnrm2TDgXxqKyUImnBC-JNh26VvMH__84WgD-tEcOIbIHjQ5yDA/s1600/DSC_1657.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht4sZCR8PlGPnQXRzW2WVHONtXICMjs6xgT9p9LwGJ0tbSA1Gb6LY0unIsr5Xb2Nyb3eaIoS-RRPL4TGRCl8A69GJybnrm2TDgXxqKyUImnBC-JNh26VvMH__84WgD-tEcOIbIHjQ5yDA/s1600/DSC_1657.jpg" height="211" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the incredible rock art on display at Travellers Rest</td></tr>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Day of the Jackal, 7c+</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px;">
<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Poison Dwarf, 7b</span><br />
<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Arch Babysitter, 7b</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieSltfZc99nLDrvD8u34pHRK1xBl7vNdz8TeS6l_HNcJFRoZBtbqt3oHk56nzEnC2UzB_wBL5LgSacSIw3kgXezlSVuUcnj_7P-_aFM6D1ugC2QsgfBpCGF8zqKEtxiMxoHTnYV7fw0cY/s1600/DSC_1732.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieSltfZc99nLDrvD8u34pHRK1xBl7vNdz8TeS6l_HNcJFRoZBtbqt3oHk56nzEnC2UzB_wBL5LgSacSIw3kgXezlSVuUcnj_7P-_aFM6D1ugC2QsgfBpCGF8zqKEtxiMxoHTnYV7fw0cY/s1600/DSC_1732.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cedar Spine, 7c</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-49510136503317451432014-06-24T15:00:00.000+10:002014-06-24T15:00:09.138+10:00Griping and Grading...
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<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: black; color: white;">This is a copy of an article that I wrote for VL magazine a few weeks ago. Before you charge through it though, I'd just like to clarify a few things. I am shit at grading, clearly!As such, I am taking a hiatus from grading any new problems, in a Sharma-like fashion. I am also a very front on climber. Usually when I do things, I do them quickly with a minimum of trickery. No heels, perhaps a toe here and there, but I live by the mantra 'front step and pull.' So, if you find some other way to do one of my problems, well done, glad for you, but that's probably not the way I did it. Does it make the grade wrong? Maybe. In the scheme of things, does it matter? Hells no. Is it still a good problem? I hope so. So enjoy the read and let me know what you think...</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: black; color: white;">It seems that
there are a lot of things that create serious angst amongst us
climbers. When am I going to get out next? Who am I going to climb
with? Has my pulley healed sufficiently to bear down on that hold?
Does my arse look big in this harness? (Yes.) And, most importantly,
what grade is the boulder or route am obsessing over at the moment?</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuB7wFeGjdXxLvPqSglwg8hgy-86t1jQpLgC7LOC1jCQLDUl5KyGQQvO7G3uUpI8UjYYY7O0hj7Fa1xzuSeauqVhHJWCD_99IorqWJG3_3lNIAiQUB1As3WcsOtmJzajRDPhsVqqPbDzc/s1600/DSC03243.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuB7wFeGjdXxLvPqSglwg8hgy-86t1jQpLgC7LOC1jCQLDUl5KyGQQvO7G3uUpI8UjYYY7O0hj7Fa1xzuSeauqVhHJWCD_99IorqWJG3_3lNIAiQUB1As3WcsOtmJzajRDPhsVqqPbDzc/s1600/DSC03243.jpg" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Quickening, V10 my way? 9 yours?<br />Who Cares?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: black; color: white;">There are few
subjects as personal or divisive in climbing as grading. But, more
importantly, there is also nothing as subjective as the grade of a
boulder problem. What may be easy for you could be bullet-hard for
someone of similar talent but different build. And what you find
impossible, perhaps a delicate slab, may be a piece of piss for an
old Font master who can barely wipe his own arse without the
assistance of a full-time carer but waltzes up V11 slabs with ease.
(Note: the author may have been witness to such events in the past
and may harbour some insecurities as a result.)
</span></div>
<br />
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br />
</span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFMgEACXHZf3wRDEnViJ67fW65QdGxttboczzky5gsD-e_yhd5-nvuLp4z79e1kv_3pxNyPcyMfL5o3rK4i5rHUKQxOtW94teD1aPZ_6RvgB3VFl-k2dRAq0TXb0qQc98UD1ATACekJ0U/s1600/DSC03283.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFMgEACXHZf3wRDEnViJ67fW65QdGxttboczzky5gsD-e_yhd5-nvuLp4z79e1kv_3pxNyPcyMfL5o3rK4i5rHUKQxOtW94teD1aPZ_6RvgB3VFl-k2dRAq0TXb0qQc98UD1ATACekJ0U/s1600/DSC03283.jpg" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Big Al bringing a consensus grade to <br />Blackbeard's Delight V8</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: black; color: white;">What is often
forgotten in any grade debate is that the most important thing is the
quality of the problem, not the number. Of course, as human beings,
we want to measure our own progress (and, occasionally, the progress
of our friends), and because of this overwhelming need for
comparison, we create grades. In my mind, grading works in the
following way: the first ascentionist suggests a grade, people repeat
it and eventually a consensus on the grade is reached If you come
along and don't agree with the grade – and the problem has been
repeated a million times – you're either weak or a beast, you
decide. But, whatever you do, don't take it out on the first
ascentionist.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS-hiszWI8yp4mBhFTQXHtVpbqQoMR6ckNzreAGBf9E-eiFW1q18mIC1IdFbLQ4BJ1rnSYcOYKgMPubWTrRUm29GSuiJZQZZHBodTOliMp7sOhsafC_AIU1pzaryj-EHIoQs932hPeyW4/s1600/IMG_1259.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS-hiszWI8yp4mBhFTQXHtVpbqQoMR6ckNzreAGBf9E-eiFW1q18mIC1IdFbLQ4BJ1rnSYcOYKgMPubWTrRUm29GSuiJZQZZHBodTOliMp7sOhsafC_AIU1pzaryj-EHIoQs932hPeyW4/s1600/IMG_1259.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Return of the King, Unrepeated, so still V10</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: black; color: white;">Now, let me
educate you a little about first ascents. When someone does a new
problem, they normally splurt out a number that is an indication of
how hard something felt for them. And let me tell you, if you have
spent an age working a problem, you're probably going to give it a
big number to soothe your fragile ego. However, more importantly than
the grade, they are thinking of a kick-ass name that highlights the
issues plaguing the world on that particular day: who is so hot right
now or what film they got baked and watched last night. NOT TO
MENTION BEING THE FIRST TO FIGURE OUT MOVES?</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br />
</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: black; color: white;">I am sure there
are people who lie awake at night and think long and hard about what
other people are going to think of their latest addition to the world
of bouldering. I, however, could not possibly give less of a shit
about what other people think. I climb because I love it. I climb
because I love to be outdoors. I climb because it feels right to me.
But sitting around and discussing grades for prolonged periods of
time moves away from all the things that I love about climbing and,
in all honesty, it becomes a massive wank in the end. If the grade of
a problem is so important to you that you can't possibly move on,
then you are probably in the wrong game. There is no exactness in
climbing. Problems cannot be measured in the same way that a run can
be timed or a bike ride recorded. The best you can ever hope for in
bouldering and climbing in general is a firm consensus. Even then,
how often have you heard the following conversation or similar around
the campfire? ‘Man,’ or perhaps ‘Dude’, ‘that thing is so
soft, it feels like v9 to me.’ ‘Are you serious esé?’ (I like
to sit around Mexican campfires) ‘That thing is fucken hard, I can
barely touch that sloper.’</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: black; color: white;">Just ease up
before you start spraying on your 8a.fuckwit account about the FA's
idocy, maybe the developer is a short arse (like me), or perhaps they
are completely beastly when it comes to crimping (unlike me). Most
importantly remember this little pearl, take it all with a grain of
salt peeps and enjoy the sport for what it is, climbing fucking
rocks. That's what we do, nothing more, nothing less.</span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-8229666579382275732014-05-05T10:49:00.000+10:002014-05-05T10:49:23.630+10:00The times, they are a changing...<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">FA of Hippo at the Gate</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcEXo1JjL1PHL6kdeL4mVVvADlItecW9d9WYOIhtYoLek4Ye4QFaXxJinj0Ue90t6gklybn5zSXki-gxszIv-pR3eEsY1ScUbVabONMOaiH3p9VlkxItAwR579o191PLNr655tk_Nj2eM/s1600/IMG_1992.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcEXo1JjL1PHL6kdeL4mVVvADlItecW9d9WYOIhtYoLek4Ye4QFaXxJinj0Ue90t6gklybn5zSXki-gxszIv-pR3eEsY1ScUbVabONMOaiH3p9VlkxItAwR579o191PLNr655tk_Nj2eM/s1600/IMG_1992.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Throwing down on some Southern awesomeness</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnkq2Z1x6kQWzKhHV1LtU2tL6iUfiCZVqsSIZS2i5cEY2S7QtdGINT7eJVjiSHjQMa2rA5EgMCeIQkxcICIEQPo5A1WtsXEAPsv-WG3B8e9kj4KpQwkUlG4BwjXwX5yrbmeNIa0bZ5P8s/s1600/IMG_1831.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnkq2Z1x6kQWzKhHV1LtU2tL6iUfiCZVqsSIZS2i5cEY2S7QtdGINT7eJVjiSHjQMa2rA5EgMCeIQkxcICIEQPo5A1WtsXEAPsv-WG3B8e9kj4KpQwkUlG4BwjXwX5yrbmeNIa0bZ5P8s/s1600/IMG_1831.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chooky on You're Eating Worms Michael</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0IexVvGESLUWS2YOtySew-wW__yxb6bBHGMUXZyB6HKW-bi1UbGzRo3dEpVVWgoxRR7KoZ4URlsWAVs2HoVH_0LAWK61hsnevH1xKAGPWUyhOt_KYZLkIEmzbO9p7ASrNPL8ld7KbI9I/s1600/IMG_1934.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0IexVvGESLUWS2YOtySew-wW__yxb6bBHGMUXZyB6HKW-bi1UbGzRo3dEpVVWgoxRR7KoZ4URlsWAVs2HoVH_0LAWK61hsnevH1xKAGPWUyhOt_KYZLkIEmzbO9p7ASrNPL8ld7KbI9I/s1600/IMG_1934.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">FA of Swedjen<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Holy shit folks, it's winter! And it has come from nowhere... It seems like only last week that we were enjoying long hot days and longer hot nights. Could it just be that I have been working like a little worker bee and I failed to heed the signs? Or am I becoming one of those old fucks to whom the seasons fly by and everything is "remember when" this and "the youth of today" that? By christ I hope not... Anyways, it definitely is winter. How do I know this? Besides the fact that it's now May. I know, because I am sitting in a cafe, wearing a down jacket and I'm only just comfortable. Sucks huh? Well it would if there weren't a bunch of positives to go along with it. Because, winter to me is a synonym for awesomeness. Cold, dry conditions maketh the boulders feel good and stuff. It also means that there is a bit of downtime from the restaurant and this year a big stint in South Africa. It was going to be a second summer in Squamish, but the stars refused to align and therefore I'm off to Rocklands. Not just me either. I'm meeting up with two of my fav people on the planet, Sam and Lu and their new little edition, Arnold. It should be a proper adventure, featuring some amazing stone, as well as a whole new place and a wee bit of culture to boot. It's not often that I'm too fazed about doing much besides crushing when I head off on a climbing trip, but SA looks crazy fun, with everything on offer, from game parks to Table Mountain and everything in between. But, for all that, my main focus is still going to be the boulders and crushing as hard as I can... In preparation I have even been doing a little training on the plastiche as well as getting out and putting up the odd problem. There has been some great new development in the Grampians in the last couple of years, with the usual results. Find an area, clean the probs, send, let peeps know where it's at, sit back and wait, and then....... nothing. However, when a fire comes along and demolishes the Northern Grampians and all the associated areas, it means that people have to step out of their comfort zones, and perhaps even clean a thing or two of their own. It has been cool to see people visiting some areas that were established years ago, but are rarely visited. It has been even better to see people taking it upon themselves to go out and establish some quality new lines in some world class areas. To those people, I doff my cap, and say, keep up the good work...Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-53575459853167627142014-02-13T17:59:00.000+11:002014-02-13T17:59:26.644+11:00Ponderings<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
There are times around the Christmas
period when I start to feel a little down. Now this is not because I
am a sad sack who has no family or mates to pass the festive season
with. Its more to do with the weather. Whilst you Northeners are
passing the days in blissful conditions, sub zero, dry hands, sticky
rock type stuff, it starts to get really hot down here in the So Hem.
It's not unusual to have a Christmas where the mercury peaks at
around 40degrees. In other words, it's terrible conditions for
climbing. Now, it's bad enough that its fucking hot already, but to
make matters worse, this year, for the first time in 7 or 8 years, I
have to work all summer. So, not only do I miss out on climbing, I
can't go travelling, I can't hang on the beach all day and party all
night, Well I guess I can party all night, but fronting up to work
hung over in your own restaurant all summer is probably not a great
look, not to mention a shitty way to pass the days. So, yeah, I'm
feeling a little low, well I was until I started thinking about trips
for this year, the trips I have taken in the last 12 months and all
of the other amazing opportunities and experiences that climbing has
afforded me.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
I think as a group, climbers often
forget just how blessed we are. We live in a sub section of society
that is barely governed by rules. We travel extensively, we meet
incredible people, we stay in incredible places, we skive, we chill,
we discover, we live... I look at people who 9 to 5 their lives away
and I genuinely feel sorry for them. No matter how much money they
have, no matter how big their houses or nice their cars are, I
wouldn't trade them a single day of the outlaw lifestyle. For over 20
years I have been gifted with the opportunities to climb and travel,
I have met people from all facets of life who will remain friends
until my last day. All of these thoughts will keep me going for the
next few months as I slave the days away over a hot stove (always
wanted to say that) churning out paella, linguine and snapper for the
masses, or swallow the fierce retort (for which I am infamous) as I
deal with some unpleasant little shit sack from Melbourne in
overtight jeans who doesn't think that the milk is hot enough in his
half strength decaf soy mocha.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
For this summer I will have to content
myself with living vicariously through others. I will have to make
the fingerboard my best friend. I will up my jiu jitsu training to
everyday, because I can't sit still, but through all of that I will
be dreaming of the next time that I grasp cold rock, the feeling of
tension that passes through my body as I desperately cling on through
the outward force at the end of a deadpoint, the laughter that will
be shared as I fall off a delicate slab move, (much to my friends
mirth) and the unspoken love and camaraderie that is an omnipresent
companion wherever I go in the climbing world.
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV0dObtjU6u10QyP7SpHjrHo9mkirE4xTv7KlFkPOeGi8COed12c9DwwvjNI3XjptaKAGqMpz8TF5qfbQulNjn-sgr9s0bq_4WGZVrcuz3e34uJGCODgPhCkZfiq_rnLWvMVphORIJ9Kg/s1600/IMG_0871.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV0dObtjU6u10QyP7SpHjrHo9mkirE4xTv7KlFkPOeGi8COed12c9DwwvjNI3XjptaKAGqMpz8TF5qfbQulNjn-sgr9s0bq_4WGZVrcuz3e34uJGCODgPhCkZfiq_rnLWvMVphORIJ9Kg/s1600/IMG_0871.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_wTrbjBPbGi6T4BcTqMAWpGzAHmXGl7tlNERNzNxZPR-z31ngan8wQhE9DfNxAbfSMCrs_OS7tUghRUqTQJ2z_itsRBchowVopgwkWCSo-3eixZZUWsHddZqKHVeoJDnWLcRRz7qSyuM/s1600/IMG_0891.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_wTrbjBPbGi6T4BcTqMAWpGzAHmXGl7tlNERNzNxZPR-z31ngan8wQhE9DfNxAbfSMCrs_OS7tUghRUqTQJ2z_itsRBchowVopgwkWCSo-3eixZZUWsHddZqKHVeoJDnWLcRRz7qSyuM/s1600/IMG_0891.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
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<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
So, where will it be in 2014? Do I head
to an old favourite, such as Switzerland, check out Magic Wood and
all that it has to offer? Or maybe this trip it will be Norway and
Sweden, taking in the fjords from a boat and scoping out new lines.
Perhaps we will join the masses and head to the wilds of South
Africa. Then there's always the Grampians, my playground. I could
always just pass a couple of months there, putting up new problems,
walking, brushing and crushing. Who knows? Whatever happens, my
enthusiasm for climbing, travelling and meeting new people and
experiencing new cultures remains undiminished. And as always, it is
with a huge thanks to all of my sponsors for all the help that they provide me in
continuing to live the dream, always nice to know that someone
understands you...</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-65399264850853913292013-10-31T14:48:00.001+11:002013-10-31T14:48:06.664+11:00Back to Swizzy
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivK0Wrf9G-SkGF5iYKaqmwHjMbVfjjpwtS5WcDpytiwAeXOoudwECkjlg9GpgaJW4s2ef4tfpRGE394vhd7ErRVt3kRRTXyIAYVyjo5WO3AGYPFCgxD7MwGFev-JmlymRtj9XmoiVUd3A/s1600/IMG_1556.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivK0Wrf9G-SkGF5iYKaqmwHjMbVfjjpwtS5WcDpytiwAeXOoudwECkjlg9GpgaJW4s2ef4tfpRGE394vhd7ErRVt3kRRTXyIAYVyjo5WO3AGYPFCgxD7MwGFev-JmlymRtj9XmoiVUd3A/s320/IMG_1556.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Suworow, 7b+</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-1XJLGGL1Fkn8NUQUM54m5tuC0KojgPLHtC9fDuZj_poTGKemUKE-M4PQNoW_SvbtckXpmv9ZmPu836LBytcSC_eZghR7BzFJcI50FTmFTQXuwzWxCLNWpQkWgrCqd9fP-_c1oI4RqGQ/s1600/IMG_1479.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-1XJLGGL1Fkn8NUQUM54m5tuC0KojgPLHtC9fDuZj_poTGKemUKE-M4PQNoW_SvbtckXpmv9ZmPu836LBytcSC_eZghR7BzFJcI50FTmFTQXuwzWxCLNWpQkWgrCqd9fP-_c1oI4RqGQ/s200/IMG_1479.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Recon Time</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div align="LEFT" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; page-break-after: auto; page-break-before: auto;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="color: white; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">As
always, flying is far more glamorous to those who don't do much of
it. Now don't get me wrong, I'm not some high flying exec, who boards
a plane for some far flung destination every second week, but when
you live on the arse end of the world, flying and particularly,
flying for a really long time is part and parcel of climbing at
awesome venues around the world. So, it was with the usual
trepidation that I boarded my longhaul flight to Milan, praying that
there would be some good films and some extra space. I was awarded on
my second leg with a full row to myself. Nothing to it really, two
valium, an eye mask, ear plugs and whammo, I was in Milan...</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; page-break-after: auto; page-break-before: auto;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Even
though I had done the same drive before, I was flabbergasted by the
panorama that greeted me as I passed over the border into
Switzerland. Brimming with excitement, I averaged somewhere around
160kmh for the majority of the journey and I was by no means the
fastest driver on the road. My friend Barti had organised an
apartment for us in the town of Chironico, meaning that we could walk
to most of the boulders within 15 minutes, which left extra time for
coffee and sweet treat consumption. Back in the ancient past, when I
was a student or just a povo bastard, climbing trips meant scrounging
as best you could, tuna pasta and the occasional beer. It also meant
coming home a couple of kilos lighter and falling upon whatever food
you could find in the pantry. Not anymore. These days, its all
Barolo, Chianti, cheese and chocolate. And not even the cheese with a
greenish tinge and a special label. By the time I arrived at the crag
each day, I already felt pretty full of lard and my body was already
craving more sugar. By day three I was feeling like Amy Winehouse and
planning my own trip to the Betty Ford Clinic upon my less than
triumphant return to Australia</span>.</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-9NZG_AQ6cBybyU28j8Pn2To9I5HbLlzxcWQYVvVZ_bQQNF5M-R1hJsJxbarXLD-XqwzBFXZMX46XDeEtgurlDvSzXkuhdrUFTboez2ODcramEutII5cJ-jNwaedajk_Tf2miPK0XQHs/s1600/IMG_1569.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-9NZG_AQ6cBybyU28j8Pn2To9I5HbLlzxcWQYVvVZ_bQQNF5M-R1hJsJxbarXLD-XqwzBFXZMX46XDeEtgurlDvSzXkuhdrUFTboez2ODcramEutII5cJ-jNwaedajk_Tf2miPK0XQHs/s320/IMG_1569.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le vent nous portera, 8a</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="LEFT" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; page-break-after: auto; page-break-before: auto;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="color: white; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">All
that aside, the trip started well. I got my eye in on the first day,
before we headed up to the Gotthard Pass to beat some low cloud. What
an amazing venue, Possessing everything that Australia doesn't. High
boulders on a mountain plateau, surrounded by high peaks and a stream
running straight through it. I climbed the amazing Suworow, 7b+, a
high and compressiony arete, with a sweet final slap for the lip and
a beached whale mantle. Stellar start to the day. I also managed to
knock off a first ascent down by the river, a big off handed dyno to
a good rail and a steady top-out. Probably, around the 7c+ mark. It
may have already been climbed, but was marked as a project in the
guide, so I'll claim it anyways...</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; page-break-after: auto; page-break-before: auto;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="color: white; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">After
that, it was back to Chironico. I had a bunch of things in mind,
including a little unfinished business. I had a good lash at Le
Pilier, 8a, on the last day of my last trip, peeling off the final
move from exhaustion on each burn, screaming in frustration, knowing
with each attempt that the opportunity was slipping away. Well, I
made up for that pretty quick smart. I reacquainted myself with the
moves and then waited for the sun to hide away and latched the
finishing jug. Redemption. On the same day, I slunk my way up the
weird and crimpy Salut a Toit,7c+, french for Salute the Twat I
believe. I was feeling pretty strong, ready to unleash the fury, but
then, of course, the rain arrived. We had been assured that October
is the driest month in Switzerland, but I call bullshit on that, as
it seemed to piss down or threaten to, almost every second day.
Luckily, there are so many options for climbing, that if it was
raining in Chironico we could always head to a mountain pass which
had a very different weather pattern or even up to Brione. And, if
worst came to worst, there was always the Arabesque cave, though I
had already done all the worthwhile problems there on my last trip.</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; page-break-after: auto; page-break-before: auto;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="color: white; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">I
was starting to feel pretty strong, but frustrated by the weather on
most efforts. Even when it wasn't raining, it was damp in the air,
making everything feel just a little damp and much harder than it
actually is. That, or I'm just a complete hack and am nowhere near as
strong as I thought...</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; page-break-after: auto; page-break-before: auto;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">I
spent a lot of time running around the forrest, just trying to find
some dry rock worth climbing and was happy enough to get up some 7a's
on some days. I also spent time climbing with an old mate Stuey, a
former prodigy and his 5 year old son, who was loving his bouldering.
In-between some serious dummy spits, I got to witness him haul his
little body up some very impressive lines, including some
unrepeatable by adult classics. An enjoyable distraction in between
attempts</span>.</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrUNwsxfEaIOQi5wyq1hOL1X2A66aeDaWjtVpsrjqBmBaIkAvt6bFvCSm5Cx0eW0gJu-bqEc7D4mAzMh2Dcio6Fs7WJZ7DHg-4hRFvoOORCFLpOtlvew9mC7j8ZZHOIVHAKVSJRlj2t5Q/s1600/IMG_1518.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrUNwsxfEaIOQi5wyq1hOL1X2A66aeDaWjtVpsrjqBmBaIkAvt6bFvCSm5Cx0eW0gJu-bqEc7D4mAzMh2Dcio6Fs7WJZ7DHg-4hRFvoOORCFLpOtlvew9mC7j8ZZHOIVHAKVSJRlj2t5Q/s320/IMG_1518.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le Pilier, 8a</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="LEFT" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; page-break-after: auto; page-break-before: auto;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="color: white; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">I
didn't really have too many projects in mind for this trip and was
more than happy to just wait until I spotted something that took my
fancy. One of the lines that most appealed, was Le vent nous porteŕa,
8a. A Fred Nicole classic. (As an aside, there is virtually no crag
in the entirety of switzerland that doesn't contain a classic 8a and
8b by the grandmaster of bouldering. He has been so active and has
done so many hard lines, it is almost unfathomable that one person
could be so good for so long). I jumped on this puppy and immediately
liked the moves, I had them dialed down in ten minutes, but just
couldn't get it together in a oner. There is a fiddly starting match,
followed by a big slap to the arête and then a weird and tricky drop
in on to a small crimp and a jump round the arête to a massive jug.
Game over. Usually, once the moves are dialed, I do a problem quickly
and I came very close on a number of shots, but ran out of gas and
had to call it a day. And then, rain!!! The amazing thing is,
everything except the crux hold stayed dry in the wet, so the next
day I had another lash, it all felt ok, but I was having the same
issue. So, I walked away and had a play around on a few other things
with the crew. We had to walk back past it to get back to the ranch,
so I decided that maybe I'd just give it one more shot before calling
it a day. A quick lashing off liquid chalk and I was topping it out.
Sweet, a Fred classic ticked. As always, the trip flew past way too
quickly and after no time at all it was home time. We had one more
day of climbing and woke to.... Yep, you guessed it, rain. So, we
changed our plans and decided to meet Barti and Tabea near the
susstenpass so we could climb there. And it was a great choice. One
of the most amazing places that I have ever been. Boulders at
2000meters, surrounded by snow covered peaks and unlimited rock. We
also ran into moon athlete, Martin Keller, out to try his highlander
project again before the winter set in. Was great to see him back in
action after such a serious injury...</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBpifj8eADz_wBJJIrkeNYUz_B7fL1QvlEi3A5bY5DGtLNfOHm8F7xNKQGHcLuenWzwyoaw_5M9qvAKYJTzx7Rv7esMN9xat6DNN-8pp33RALYgtRGLKCylykG1rW_2dr42kXk6s4SroQ/s1600/IMG_1629.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBpifj8eADz_wBJJIrkeNYUz_B7fL1QvlEi3A5bY5DGtLNfOHm8F7xNKQGHcLuenWzwyoaw_5M9qvAKYJTzx7Rv7esMN9xat6DNN-8pp33RALYgtRGLKCylykG1rW_2dr42kXk6s4SroQ/s320/IMG_1629.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Matt, ready for the German Sparkle Party</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="LEFT" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; page-break-after: auto; page-break-before: auto;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Well,
that was that really, back in oz now and back at work, ready for the
crazy season in the restaurant and back to my beloved grampians next
week!!!! </span></span></span></span></span>
</span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; page-break-after: auto; page-break-before: auto;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="color: white; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Thanks
to everyone for such a great trip, and thanks as always to the
sponsors who help make these trips possible. Was amazing to have a
crash pad ready and waiting for me upon arrival, so cheers Ben.</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; page-break-after: auto; page-break-before: auto;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="color: white; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Here's
a list of some of the best problems that I did:</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; page-break-after: auto; page-break-before: auto;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="color: white; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Le
Pilier, 8a</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; page-break-after: auto; page-break-before: auto;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="color: white; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Le
vent nous poterá, 8a</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; page-break-after: auto; page-break-before: auto;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="color: white; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Salut
a toit, 7c+</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; page-break-after: auto; page-break-before: auto;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="color: white; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Project
7c+ FA</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; page-break-after: auto; page-break-before: auto;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="color: white; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">The
real shield, 7c</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; page-break-after: auto; page-break-before: auto;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="color: white; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Quasimodo,
7b+</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; page-break-after: auto; page-break-before: auto;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="color: white; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Auto
pilot, 7b+</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; page-break-after: auto; page-break-before: auto;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="color: white; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Suworow,
7b+</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; page-break-after: auto; page-break-before: auto;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="color: white; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Serre
moi fort stand, 7b+</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; page-break-after: auto; page-break-before: auto;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="color: white; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Karma
police, 7a+</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; page-break-after: auto; page-break-before: auto;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="color: white; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Selection
door, 7a</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Number
one, 7a</span><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW5xrojAvrPXKzwB9NdCgU3TDb3tWbji_sI1YE_1kQrpv3ekC_4v6fjU-roK_d8dUivTtW6vEwcZmresR86r3HR4xYozipMIsDUpsXluOMC5EMc5wqTS0Lc0jSiHDgB11YDiddcSA-VtE/s1600/IMG_1471.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW5xrojAvrPXKzwB9NdCgU3TDb3tWbji_sI1YE_1kQrpv3ekC_4v6fjU-roK_d8dUivTtW6vEwcZmresR86r3HR4xYozipMIsDUpsXluOMC5EMc5wqTS0Lc0jSiHDgB11YDiddcSA-VtE/s320/IMG_1471.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Home Sweet Home</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="color: black;">
<br /></div>
<div style="color: black;">
<br /></div>
<div style="color: black;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: black; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: black; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></span></div>
<br />
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-50750830502419320552013-09-04T15:21:00.000+10:002013-09-04T15:21:27.449+10:00<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7UaXw_zmoGdNDaMxiBbPgJbuAmOE8g52rgknW4hS-CSuwFVi5VfWNGB58WueAfD9GKcqz1mhmAI3zCLX0BmFe1MT3x6UYHbSHCUve6aFgjYmn5V53LSL2KDcAuK-MUouGPFcNkd0M5Yw/s1600/IMG_1170.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7UaXw_zmoGdNDaMxiBbPgJbuAmOE8g52rgknW4hS-CSuwFVi5VfWNGB58WueAfD9GKcqz1mhmAI3zCLX0BmFe1MT3x6UYHbSHCUve6aFgjYmn5V53LSL2KDcAuK-MUouGPFcNkd0M5Yw/s320/IMG_1170.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The man and his vis downy!!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB9iQ-_w3kfpNN33Fa3Q7Fht4pN2VqqBvduUrAGd6vIIVljSWmjqC2f6htBqls-wIApu9USA75pZwBRNsvuJYZoyuavkQpMHMAvOWJd7bx9SgS_XjWyRBwfQoP4CxdDgk6iISHGPRZHtg/s1600/IMG_1199.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB9iQ-_w3kfpNN33Fa3Q7Fht4pN2VqqBvduUrAGd6vIIVljSWmjqC2f6htBqls-wIApu9USA75pZwBRNsvuJYZoyuavkQpMHMAvOWJd7bx9SgS_XjWyRBwfQoP4CxdDgk6iISHGPRZHtg/s320/IMG_1199.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">FA of Local Knowledge at the Coop</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOgKeaWXo1dWhOTqCvw66KXIhQQhywXFiAknTs0BDAqegmfvMFsBiv-aM00tL80IaICbrnR1Bot3dRUX0xVg_y5EQdeD403ZqZs8r5x1muQLnHfvUSFNq0I0rDWYYG6PIJ3Da_JB2q2WE/s1600/IMG_1259.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOgKeaWXo1dWhOTqCvw66KXIhQQhywXFiAknTs0BDAqegmfvMFsBiv-aM00tL80IaICbrnR1Bot3dRUX0xVg_y5EQdeD403ZqZs8r5x1muQLnHfvUSFNq0I0rDWYYG6PIJ3Da_JB2q2WE/s320/IMG_1259.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">FA of Return of the King</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Interesting weather over the past couple of months. From drought to borderline floods, it has mainly been the weekends that have been washed out, leaving Mondays and Tuesdays to produce some primo conditions. Cold, crisp and clear... Which, thankfully, ties in nicely with the days that I have been able to sneak away from the restaurant. A cruisey drive up on Monday morning, rendezvous with Chook and Earl for a coffee, then out to some new blocs, an afternoon of joyful and banter filled crushing, followed by dinner and drinks. Repeat on the Tuesday, then mosey on back to Melbourne town for the night, stay at ma and pa Weill's, then back to the peninsula Wednesday morning for work in the evening... Sounds pretty good and I assure you it is as good as it sounds. Lots of developing of new areas and also some revisiting of some old uns, which are still throwing up quality lines...<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTqKJ422upWEdoezgOW-IVInIA2fV0Wd9XHLB5YJUdUd6hJJMrbVw8eVv5NyGb7fngL1qvx5la-aZYaaaj1NC9R7REz8s_ZOlNENJfdno9CvTQ2OomaJPYyp5__MZg-UhDQU2vgskDO0o/s1600/IMG_1220.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTqKJ422upWEdoezgOW-IVInIA2fV0Wd9XHLB5YJUdUd6hJJMrbVw8eVv5NyGb7fngL1qvx5la-aZYaaaj1NC9R7REz8s_ZOlNENJfdno9CvTQ2OomaJPYyp5__MZg-UhDQU2vgskDO0o/s320/IMG_1220.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">FA of Dirty Chicken Plucker, a cool line with a heartbreaking mantel</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBL16feMktjKeE7zzbD4OpMCbhC-6g8VdEv04jLjb1Xn63nwnk1-jTy8CirprUbZ8u0IDYB_6To0Ugbqji6blNhhgwqzfscanbstY82onDzCCA4-b9EbK-0Il9Ih-u-KDtaTdLHwkDbp0/s1600/IMG_1216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBL16feMktjKeE7zzbD4OpMCbhC-6g8VdEv04jLjb1Xn63nwnk1-jTy8CirprUbZ8u0IDYB_6To0Ugbqji6blNhhgwqzfscanbstY82onDzCCA4-b9EbK-0Il9Ih-u-KDtaTdLHwkDbp0/s320/IMG_1216.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Chook, taping his camera to a tree</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-74134460578461552572013-06-20T08:05:00.000+10:002013-06-20T08:05:23.713+10:00Donde esta el blockmonster?<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY3CuzmTnrDrkGegGfixMsy1a0xBimkMElmPSJ6fjbSJXQl8lxfaAeOAL-_FsQjezeOjEKptZL-LeNh7u2FHNQuRGyKYgt36BtOPdj7js6W5jYcs3SMjB2zbyzac8pHVvGAgo73bqeFUg/s1600/20130617_154142_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY3CuzmTnrDrkGegGfixMsy1a0xBimkMElmPSJ6fjbSJXQl8lxfaAeOAL-_FsQjezeOjEKptZL-LeNh7u2FHNQuRGyKYgt36BtOPdj7js6W5jYcs3SMjB2zbyzac8pHVvGAgo73bqeFUg/s320/20130617_154142_1.jpg" width="240" /></a>So, as one or two of you may have noticed, I have had a bit of a sabbatical from blogging and obviously by extension, climbing... I haven't sustained any life threatening injuries, nor have I completely lost interest in bouldering and taken up competitive crocheting, but I have, for a change, been busy working.<br />
My brother, Dave and our friend Nathan and I have just opened a new restaurant in the delightful sea side village of Mt Martha. We have been renovating and rebuilding for about two months and operating for the last two weeks. Thankfully, we have been almost run off our feet, which has been both gratifying and exhausting in equal measure.<br />
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I have managed to sneak a couple of days in with some of my favourite peeps, but have missed out on the lion's share of the fun and games that have been taking place over the last few months. I have started training again, which has been a bit of a shock to the system, and have also been back into Jiu Jitsu and the mma stuff, which has reminded me just how much I enjoy the brutal cardio that they provide.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC7kKILnq3uGfTLwVQcekfcGkcX_PyP0eWI_WZNh3XIan3CiUzJl3kCUlpyJSLQ4PiiYnnL78CpV11rA1syQFZjqZ0M0SjlhBUwk6Pb73J-TaLJxd-fNVFz-UmB-8yKyhEZ82mUVsre6s/s1600/20130617_153131_8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC7kKILnq3uGfTLwVQcekfcGkcX_PyP0eWI_WZNh3XIan3CiUzJl3kCUlpyJSLQ4PiiYnnL78CpV11rA1syQFZjqZ0M0SjlhBUwk6Pb73J-TaLJxd-fNVFz-UmB-8yKyhEZ82mUVsre6s/s320/20130617_153131_8.jpg" width="240" /></a>Anyhoo, the last two days were my first back to back days off in a while, so I decided to head home and catch up with Chook and Nat, Earl and Sarah and anyone else who was out and about on a perfect Monday and Tuesday. Even though I haven't climbed on rock in a bit, I am feeling pretty good. I've lost some weight, just from being busy and not eating all that much, which is a strange phenomenon, especially since I am now around food all the time...</div>
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So, we ventured to another new area, called the Chook Pen, discovered recently by the man himself and even though the photos that he had sent me didn't inspire a lot of confidence, it appears much better upon arrival. We warmed up on a fun little traverse and then started setting our sights on the bigger and more impressive lines. Chook had spied a cracker of a line and was eager for the FA. Knowing how much I covet an FA, I promised to leave it be while he worked the moves. I did, however, spy a rightward exit from the same start that looked quite a bit harder and with a slightly shittier landing. Chook was happy for me to have a blast, so I set about working out the moves. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC7kKILnq3uGfTLwVQcekfcGkcX_PyP0eWI_WZNh3XIan3CiUzJl3kCUlpyJSLQ4PiiYnnL78CpV11rA1syQFZjqZ0M0SjlhBUwk6Pb73J-TaLJxd-fNVFz-UmB-8yKyhEZ82mUVsre6s/s1600/20130617_153131_8.jpg" imageanchor="1"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPRIsITnWkyP7F-pUjAwi-tjwcs1i5mLJvOSBP66c_0h6bqCjtclvohWupYLcNDTqQ-2Xreh-7Pw4u01nsnG7npRWFTo4M1Eu1fwl1J-kvz1nQ3xgscTdyZN0UqBjUPpbz6eIgsaA2m8c/s1600/20130617_153149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPRIsITnWkyP7F-pUjAwi-tjwcs1i5mLJvOSBP66c_0h6bqCjtclvohWupYLcNDTqQ-2Xreh-7Pw4u01nsnG7npRWFTo4M1Eu1fwl1J-kvz1nQ3xgscTdyZN0UqBjUPpbz6eIgsaA2m8c/s320/20130617_153149.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJsxJCFaSB9OJvq6AmosXBSShsRpRHR60i49ID-5qOBSYJM4wZL1doL-FuXrsZQmr5rWEnu_EHxcsUZuhOQGn_TvTV9E9WDRGa76Zm9nlrGtjiXGpGrVgciNLbMSwprQOC4o2YkLlZ8vE/s1600/20130617_153152(0).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJsxJCFaSB9OJvq6AmosXBSShsRpRHR60i49ID-5qOBSYJM4wZL1doL-FuXrsZQmr5rWEnu_EHxcsUZuhOQGn_TvTV9E9WDRGa76Zm9nlrGtjiXGpGrVgciNLbMSwprQOC4o2YkLlZ8vE/s320/20130617_153152(0).jpg" width="240" /></a><br />
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Another classic highball, weird underclinging stand start, to a sweet dyno that takes a lot of tension to pull back in, followed by some classic Weill style compression and a slappy finish. Primo. Fox in the Henhouse, about V10 I guess. Made really enjoyable by the weather and the company. Thanks to Chook for the tour, Earl, Kelly and Simon for the company and the spotting!!! It's back to the restaurant now and time to make some fresh gnocchi and Portuguese Tarts...</div>
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-82672302932054919492013-03-27T09:37:00.000+11:002013-03-27T09:37:35.272+11:00End of Daze...<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3IjIvfGKh3qCaiVjTF-H7Zl5wzqrh2iY90Dk2o5pAyhmJuuPfj2jN1BZH5scsjd0-feIG32qXkbaxtBGBRFy7wo_BPxzuTrNuOFlL4k2mh81a474NTuaJ-9wUJ3mVW6I81y1FjQ6ka0Y/s1600/IMG_0856.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3IjIvfGKh3qCaiVjTF-H7Zl5wzqrh2iY90Dk2o5pAyhmJuuPfj2jN1BZH5scsjd0-feIG32qXkbaxtBGBRFy7wo_BPxzuTrNuOFlL4k2mh81a474NTuaJ-9wUJ3mVW6I81y1FjQ6ka0Y/s320/IMG_0856.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Twin Fin</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaFjGYhWQzJQqeVgQIVshrJ9QgEWH8-PJQFgI2XpOekuNWN-ff0r3iUMbFeFQ-nGy3qk9YA_5ZQ_65e_zUkcZhxxEnpufXjH6CHqVBCiEs9y0HEw_APUKQiXYJhx0tq6OlcGtq3cY6ARQ/s1600/IMG_0865.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaFjGYhWQzJQqeVgQIVshrJ9QgEWH8-PJQFgI2XpOekuNWN-ff0r3iUMbFeFQ-nGy3qk9YA_5ZQ_65e_zUkcZhxxEnpufXjH6CHqVBCiEs9y0HEw_APUKQiXYJhx0tq6OlcGtq3cY6ARQ/s320/IMG_0865.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Bakelight Concept</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuzk1wdmfKKxiR6997lc2Jqmg28frJxhQGOaoO9RKP0p8GdWcjNOLhzDmW2CjpovaVpPrQtRgthtINiQbxoVL8pIhJN34P4KpLkeuvDceh0bRSNTnl0544ld2vnGm7JOjf_pDgQ0empFo/s1600/IMG_0869.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuzk1wdmfKKxiR6997lc2Jqmg28frJxhQGOaoO9RKP0p8GdWcjNOLhzDmW2CjpovaVpPrQtRgthtINiQbxoVL8pIhJN34P4KpLkeuvDceh0bRSNTnl0544ld2vnGm7JOjf_pDgQ0empFo/s320/IMG_0869.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHUqdix-uWWt91s6BdTKT4wLWe1aRktkteBrz7WNp3m7DikJAyDpBbQLu1S2NWl3AsYi63jdg_7m0mcBy6H5Vxdp9wIEvoYdSkbE6pTY_q_xsJqyzHkl1hWGGqqKWp6YH9uFhjc-zga9M/s1600/IMG_0858.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHUqdix-uWWt91s6BdTKT4wLWe1aRktkteBrz7WNp3m7DikJAyDpBbQLu1S2NWl3AsYi63jdg_7m0mcBy6H5Vxdp9wIEvoYdSkbE6pTY_q_xsJqyzHkl1hWGGqqKWp6YH9uFhjc-zga9M/s320/IMG_0858.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Clarkshark, desperate for the coveted 5th<br />
ascent of the Bath Shark, V8...</td></tr>
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Just in the last few days, the mornings have become crisp and I have shelved my harness in favor of my preferred crash pads. I've had my eye on a couple of really great lines in a newish area, but have been unable to really have a good go at either of them, mostly due to the stifling heat. The first is a pair of vertical seams that climbs with some really great slopey compression moves, with an unlikely dead point to finish. It took a few sessions to work out the crux, but when it came together, it felt pretty straight forward, symptomatic of first ascents I guess. It's called Twin Fin and is a grand line. The second is one of the coolest lines I have done in ages. 6 moves long, it has an awesome crux, a long dead point to a left hand crimp in a slot followed by a jump to a high side pull with the right. It's a total classic, called The Bakelight Concept and hopefully marks the beginning of a long, cold and dry bouldering season...Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-26186457461150683972013-03-14T12:23:00.000+11:002013-03-14T12:23:00.672+11:00Hot Dang...
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQTRJA7h69KBhw385zDCPU_ACmgorcifv9sle80V0FbZETK37rUXJkPEzvyJLQVaXfdoVY658AcjjHokdaS5rKGURZbkDbGiA-Dm96xau9Xg7vtaJFWjNN4o7pM_pXLOa-RebNnd7a7h4/s1600/IMG_0792.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQTRJA7h69KBhw385zDCPU_ACmgorcifv9sle80V0FbZETK37rUXJkPEzvyJLQVaXfdoVY658AcjjHokdaS5rKGURZbkDbGiA-Dm96xau9Xg7vtaJFWjNN4o7pM_pXLOa-RebNnd7a7h4/s320/IMG_0792.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chook, looking happy with his creation...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5kKoQgm4DyabMQeij_jASeSXc9lhIgBdMPWUMQ-gVDb-ZkEMO2I11pd3BTYyqxX9hTO7nY5QhHEJnCPpuOaTMwYBlCGQntjRJJ4ywFfkkiPE8Y4nPwhlbO9yP5vwE30bkbbzWGwb7QEI/s1600/IMG_0802.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5kKoQgm4DyabMQeij_jASeSXc9lhIgBdMPWUMQ-gVDb-ZkEMO2I11pd3BTYyqxX9hTO7nY5QhHEJnCPpuOaTMwYBlCGQntjRJJ4ywFfkkiPE8Y4nPwhlbO9yP5vwE30bkbbzWGwb7QEI/s320/IMG_0802.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not so much now though...</td></tr>
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<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
One or two of you may have noted a lack
of posts lately from down under. There really is only one reason for
it, it has been hot, really oppressively, heart breakingly, stinking,
blood hot. In the last month there have been 2 days under 30 and they
weren't far off either. So, any fitness that I had gained from my
route climbing in December and early Jan has disappeared and I am now
master of the mid grade. It has been too hot to even get excited to
try hard. Sweating your way up routes in a brief window before
exhaustion or disinterest sinks in is really the only answer. Instead
I have been focusing my efforts on a wicked new pursuit, tree
jumping... So, Lake Fyan's, which is about 15 mins from my place is
the venue and it works like this. Grab a kayak, paddle out to the
deeper water, lash the kayaks, swim across to your chosen tree, find
a route up and then jump from as high as you dare. Pehaps throw in a
backflip for good measure. Sweeeeet. It has been a great addition to
the list of activities and has other benefits. There is a great beach
there that you can drive on to and have a BBQ post swim and lounge
around in deck chairs sipping on a cold beer. All in all it has been
a pretty fun summer, but it has felt like it has been hard work to
get anything substantial done. Anyways, I guess you guys aren't that
psyched for reading about my non-climbing related activities, so
here's a run down.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivDXcFYWpb25wOhwOUlnNNLhkwa5TwMhD9HQrEFsr_70Df0Eb67MH3AMDaBSDZKeJGAa_4yXG7Cl3v_niZ1y-306RYQNrHW6dlJboolMeno0xEuTKgBK-0jMBcJVX8NFOarTsbEnaPewg/s1600/IMG_0830.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivDXcFYWpb25wOhwOUlnNNLhkwa5TwMhD9HQrEFsr_70Df0Eb67MH3AMDaBSDZKeJGAa_4yXG7Cl3v_niZ1y-306RYQNrHW6dlJboolMeno0xEuTKgBK-0jMBcJVX8NFOarTsbEnaPewg/s320/IMG_0830.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adding the bolts...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGSXL74tbkFF2HYqetv1aNtGbz9KsuWcZt5bvwWGHSzFDvEewPBTJSEH7poScfllmDk4a1Cq-jcLsOey9viyoLhJQIK4gM0Fy1uytNCmzaO5cs14u8pyzA93OK0vIVSZkr4SRzk8HaBoI/s1600/IMG_0836.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGSXL74tbkFF2HYqetv1aNtGbz9KsuWcZt5bvwWGHSzFDvEewPBTJSEH7poScfllmDk4a1Cq-jcLsOey9viyoLhJQIK4gM0Fy1uytNCmzaO5cs14u8pyzA93OK0vIVSZkr4SRzk8HaBoI/s320/IMG_0836.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And the send...</td></tr>
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<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
I have been trying two routes a bit,
but have had no luck. I have wanted to do, 'Who's a naughty boy?', 32
for a long time, but it is my anti-style really with the crux coming
right at the end and being a continuous 10 move boulder. I can pull
on and do the moves without too much effort, but doing the 29 route
beforehand just saps that little edge that you need for it. I have
come really close on a bunch of occasions, but have oozed off the
final moves, very frustrating, but not entirely unexpected in these
conditions. I have also had a play on United Nations which is an
awesome wall that shades up nicely in the afternoon, so is perfect
for an evening session, post work. This one is a different prospect,
just a hard boulder that I haven't managed to do yet. It has a pretty
hard mono move into a two finger undercling and is sick. It's
probably 31/32, but not sure. Some visiting Frankendura local pathed
it, but for mono mortals it is quite hard and has only had two
repeats, so we shall see. I'll perservere with both, but am really
just looking forward to the colder weather now and some serious
bouldering. My flirtation with a cord is almost at an end.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
I have been spending a bit of time at
Arapiles, where the gullies offer some nice cooler microclimates of
their own and you can chase the shade through multiple venues for the
day. For those who don't know, Arapiles is one of the best trad
climbing crags in the world, but is not entirely without some hard
and techo sport routes as well. Luckily enough, I was gifted a
project by one of my friends last week. A short four move boulder
leads to easier climbing up higher. Perfect for a boulderer like
myself. He'd already drilled the holes in it, all I had to do was
throw two expansions in and pop the hangers on and go for it. The
result, was an easier than expected, but still fun little 28, Mormon
Poultry and is a good little addition to Doggers Gully. Anyways, last
night was quite cool and low temps are forecast for the weekend, so
hopefully there'll be some more action to report after the weekend.</div>
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-28913508927538445532013-01-18T11:04:00.001+11:002013-01-18T11:21:07.806+11:00Summer Lovin'<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
For the first time in many years I have
been at home for a summer. Usually I would prefer to be hanging out
in cooler climes, such as Switzerland, Spain or England at this time
of year. Mostly to climb on primo rock with my Northern Hemisphere
peeps, but also to avoid the hideous heat that Australia is capable
of producing at this time of year. For an example of this, I need
only cast my mind back to yesterday when it was 40degrees. For anyone
who hasn't experienced that kind of heat, it is brutal. Stinging
sweat, plagues of flies and burn-in-five minutes sun rays. Not much
to be achieved when it comes. I rode up Mt William at 8am, a solid
10km hill climb, was home by 10.30 and then got in situ on the couch
for the day. A waste of holidays really, but it's not all bad, there
are a heap of days when the temperatures are not as high and some of
the evenings are actually pretty good. Now I need to clarify this a
little. When I say that it's good, I mean for route climbing. As you
may know, if you have followed this for a while, I am mostly a
boulderer and I love the cold weather. I love the feeling of my
fingers crushing cold stone, knowing that any error is going to on my
part and not a mere slip from a greasy or hot grip. That's not to say
that I'm not a route climber, I grew up climbing trad at Arapiles and
have climbed trad and sport in a lot of different places around the
globe. It's just that I have really been focusing on putting up new
problems and just trying to crush as hard as I can. But, when in
Rome... So this summer I promised myself I would take a little break
from pebble wrestling and tie in again like the old days... There are
a few routes that I have had my eye on for some time and a couple in
particular that I have tried before. I had a little early success on
Contra Arms Pump, an old school mixed trad and sport route, 30 and
decided the time was now to have a lash at Samosa, a 35 move 32. Not
exactly cutting edge, but harder than anything I had done and a
really interesting mix of power and power endurance. It breaks down
to a V9 boulder at the start, followed by a second insecure problem
of about 6/7. No problems right? But, there is no shake in between,
I could chalk one hand once and the climbing from one to the next is
tenuous and tension dependent. So, by the time I was exiting the
second problem I was taxed and would fall from the final press before
a good rest leading in to the final section. Did I mention the slab?
Oh yeah, and there is a final slab section, where you go from a
25degree overhang on first and second joint holds to an under
vertical bit with micro crimps and a weird and insecure finger lock
that only takes the first half joint of your index finger. But, I
couldn't fall from there if I made it, could I? Course I bloody
could. I managed to fall from just about every conceivable point on
the route. The only part that I really had nailed was the bottom
crux. I could hike the power crux every time, but just had to take
the time to gain the necessary resistance to do the rest. It was
trying. I like the process, I enjoy the mental battle, but I gotta
tell ya, falling from the slab was heart breaking. But, as they say,
every cloud and all that... The day I finally sent, there was no
pressure. It was just me and my friend Emma at the crag. I was warm
and ready. I had no expectations, just an overwhelming sense of
satisfaction that I was out on the rock on a lovely afternoon. Our
conversation was relaxed and full of friendly banter and I realised
that this is what climbing is really about to me. Being with friends
in amazing places. I tied in, not even thinking about the end game, I
climbed smoothly and confidently and before I even realised I was
standing on the top of the slab, not knowing what had happened. I
bathed in the glow of satisfaction... for five minutes, then I tied
in and started up my next project...<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Thanks as always to all the belayers who were goaded, beaten and cajoled into holding my ropes. I do appreciate it... Really, I do!</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-24844719684446853092012-11-21T12:36:00.000+11:002012-11-21T12:36:34.493+11:00The Red Mist Descends<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNeETpAWgb8JdNYRHu6NKmzwPx1Yz7ZVQi-20rfa1QRRBvgitpGrmEoLTk1sHQm-wY2yY-lcxkZvJ_cY7Z9QXpYeRDW0seMucT7784OU_bmzcT_1MQANzGKeUuviwzHAaMS4qVCfqw7Cg/s1600/DSC03440.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNeETpAWgb8JdNYRHu6NKmzwPx1Yz7ZVQi-20rfa1QRRBvgitpGrmEoLTk1sHQm-wY2yY-lcxkZvJ_cY7Z9QXpYeRDW0seMucT7784OU_bmzcT_1MQANzGKeUuviwzHAaMS4qVCfqw7Cg/s320/DSC03440.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mid Crux... Again</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It can be really draining trying a problem over and over. And trying a
single move for days on end can seem like a complete waste of time, particularly if you have the attention span of a goldfish, like me. Now, what was I saying? Oh yeah...I
spied this beautiful prow about four months ago, but didn't even wander
up to have a proper look at it until a couple of weeks later. I was
immediately blown away by how perfect the rock was and how difficult
each individual move would be. Initially, I was only able to do three of
the eleven moves, but could conceive doing all but one of them.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimFHcsUzVY_R12onTavtWqh7-TVyqmeXiju5wRmCpB3jU9PZKuCkS_aaeiBPx7Uuirm0pYXsbqz1kf0_Jx5kTATJDx6TlvmWHV-uhHINNE_DuLClc-wh9XmBxNEU7TyAP7AuVVsX4VAB4/s1600/DSC03555.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimFHcsUzVY_R12onTavtWqh7-TVyqmeXiju5wRmCpB3jU9PZKuCkS_aaeiBPx7Uuirm0pYXsbqz1kf0_Jx5kTATJDx6TlvmWHV-uhHINNE_DuLClc-wh9XmBxNEU7TyAP7AuVVsX4VAB4/s320/DSC03555.JPG" width="320" /></a>I have done of lot of new problems this year and it has been incredible. Most of them have taken only a session or two to knock over, apart from the Taken, which due to its height proved more of an issue. But, I have lacked something really hard to throw myself at. This prow would be perfect. The crux is low to the ground, easily worked on without a spotter and it is close to home, so after work sessions were a go.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikNF-Ar2kJrvCgOwok3CNw2pphamvURof3IeMzt8w-yjytMel7Ti0waP8Wu0Xu8cwp-tShgKyNoPJRSJ-X-PzpS_jQCopnAcgDnSOlOwCEO-d6tX7juALiJFTxaiicCnI2x1ezVuFVHeQ/s1600/DSC03581.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikNF-Ar2kJrvCgOwok3CNw2pphamvURof3IeMzt8w-yjytMel7Ti0waP8Wu0Xu8cwp-tShgKyNoPJRSJ-X-PzpS_jQCopnAcgDnSOlOwCEO-d6tX7juALiJFTxaiicCnI2x1ezVuFVHeQ/s320/DSC03581.jpg" width="214" /></a>I have never spent that much time on a problem, nor a route for that matter. Normally, either I do the moves quickly and then the problem or I can't do a move or two and I move on. Not this time. I was pretty sure that the crux would go down, but I would have to train for it. It wasn't a power issue either I didn't think, but more of a body tension thing. So, I went to work on the swiss ball, at the same time as trying the problem a couple of times a week. Anytime that I sat down in front of the tele I would do some sit ups or stabilizing exercises. The benefits were pretty immediate. On an afternoon out with Chook, I managed to do the problem from post-crux to the top. I was chuffed and had a renewed sense of purpose. At times I was pretty dejected about the whole thing, I had tried the crux move at least a hundred times and was making very little progress. The crux is a weird move, a proper compression slap from a good hold on your right, underneath the roof, to a single pad, slightly off camber hold. You have a toe hook on the arete with your left foot and a scummy heel toe with your right. Left hand open-handing the arete. There was so much momentum, that every time I fell from the hold I would end up about a meter downhill from where my left hand had started. <br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhojtGDK-Q9sL4bPzqCMy6cwizNViztrj3luHRzekxGSsQ3jYUxINj44HRCJRVyTqT9BnZeeXWiiqjBgC8HodM3QTi-SYz-rsizWZ-a1WETXS72Lee4s9shnENOFnlgxYZxlEcdu984jbE/s1600/DSC03545.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhojtGDK-Q9sL4bPzqCMy6cwizNViztrj3luHRzekxGSsQ3jYUxINj44HRCJRVyTqT9BnZeeXWiiqjBgC8HodM3QTi-SYz-rsizWZ-a1WETXS72Lee4s9shnENOFnlgxYZxlEcdu984jbE/s320/DSC03545.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Victors ledge. Matt and I laughing about my smooth top-out skills</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It was draining too. Maybe three or four adult tries and then another ten weaker attempts and that would be it for the session. Day eight on the problem and I still hadn't done the move, I was getting cabin fever from sitting underneath the roof for so long, trying to envisage another way of doing the move. The session before I had paused on the hold and fallen directly underneath the holds, but that was the most progress I had made in four weeks. Matt and Vanessa were up for the weekend, which always boosts my psych. Since those guys moved here, I have been more motivated than ever. Their enthusiasm for climbing and general good humor is infectious, not to mention the fact that they know all the same movie quotes as me... Anyways, Ness was on camera and Matt on spotting duty. I got him to take a little weight through the move, trying to train my body to remember how to catch the hold. After a couple of attempts, with very little assistance, I did the move and then, after a brief rest, I did it on my own. I was elated. I was so happy, I considered just calling it a day there and then coming back to finish the problem. Matt and Ness were having none of it, so I tried it from the start. All of a sudden I was at the last move, but a bit of slippage and I was off. Normally, I would be pretty angry, but I was so surprised to get there that it didn't matter. Twice more I did the same thing. So close, but I was smoked. Ah well, I guess I could come back during the week with a spotter and get it done. Again, the guys talked me into one last go. And thank fuck they did, as that was the money shot. I cruised through the crux and slapped with renewed energy, until only the difficult top out remained. I slapped blindly to the top and missed the hold, but was so determined that I dropped my hand back and went again, grovelled around and then swung my body back on to the slab and rocked it out to the top. Red Mist was born. I gave it V12, but it may be harder, we'll just have to wait and see... Thanks again to all those who spotted me and provided moral support. Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-89829972768331266882012-11-12T12:18:00.001+11:002012-11-12T12:18:16.903+11:00Routes Minister<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8ZgkVSBKqiV2cJcWsCUWVGaIsYnOVn3tJORd0A2emB0N3sEE3bIskaoFHfb9APsFVHw070ketyoG7_rFAj2c43KCvvXpx4dn49vVTsNor5k4nu6j3RMgOhY6-DIpVS6bY2fvypMKTdQQ/s1600/DSC03146.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8ZgkVSBKqiV2cJcWsCUWVGaIsYnOVn3tJORd0A2emB0N3sEE3bIskaoFHfb9APsFVHw070ketyoG7_rFAj2c43KCvvXpx4dn49vVTsNor5k4nu6j3RMgOhY6-DIpVS6bY2fvypMKTdQQ/s320/DSC03146.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Musk Up</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigZOeZxx_JPKcCenuFr8XfSSMNzIBZI7F50zgUzz-iPOeW_79DVzHMD6LawLAcwtQlGxjSPFP1R9mCBDrsakvr0P2CCdHMVvTArBfXGxOjR5ebY0b5i1qBskaBhiuZACDtpjHTmMOadt0/s1600/chorro1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>Every year about this time I have a little discussion in my head. It usually goes a little like this: "Maybe this year I'll get fit and do all of those routes that I have had my eye on for years and years. Shut up idiot, that sounds stupid, it's hard work, hot, sweaty and there's not enough hard moves. Besides, we're going to Europe in six weeks on a bouldering trip. Hmmm, good point dude, let's go do some hard moves close to the ground. It's more fun, get loads done and it's a great way to stay in shape." Aside from the worrying fact that there are twin conversations going on in my head at one time, I inevitably do one or two routes and then head off to cooler climes to boulder my little heart out. However, this year there is no christmas trip planned, no escaping the heat, no euro babes and no spanish sessions. As disappointing as this may be, it does give me an opportunity to do some routes. And I gotta admit, I'm pretty damned psyched for it. I really enjoy climbing routes, it's just that when you're not fit, it's difficult and you don't get much out of it. But, there's almost nothing that a little success can't overcome...<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigZOeZxx_JPKcCenuFr8XfSSMNzIBZI7F50zgUzz-iPOeW_79DVzHMD6LawLAcwtQlGxjSPFP1R9mCBDrsakvr0P2CCdHMVvTArBfXGxOjR5ebY0b5i1qBskaBhiuZACDtpjHTmMOadt0/s1600/chorro1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigZOeZxx_JPKcCenuFr8XfSSMNzIBZI7F50zgUzz-iPOeW_79DVzHMD6LawLAcwtQlGxjSPFP1R9mCBDrsakvr0P2CCdHMVvTArBfXGxOjR5ebY0b5i1qBskaBhiuZACDtpjHTmMOadt0/s320/chorro1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The only picture I have of me with a rope on...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I've dabbled on routes up at Sandanista over the years, but have never really committed to getting fit enough to complete any of them. I once fell off the very last move of Daniel or Tiger and last season bumbled at most points on Contra Arms Pump and still didn't manage to send it. I have also had a play on Samosa, but really never put enough time into refining the moves to give it a real go. All this changed last week. Amnesty first for a warm up, decided to walk up Peace Keeper for a warm up. Not too bad, wasn't too pumped. Scotty Clarke and myself then headed back over to sandanista and sorted out the crux moves on Contra. A few little changes to my sequence, actually some major changes, made it a lot more manageable. Now, a real 30, rather than a really hard boulder that I had been doing before. A couple of days later and we were back, I decided I would have a quick glance at the top for a warm up and then go for it. I cruised through the crux, felt amazing coming into the weird finger lock section, plenty of gas left. Sweet, it's on. I lunged for the big side pull that I wanted, but brushed my hand on a bit of foliage sticking out of a crack and all of a sudden I was falling. What the fuck?!?!? Much to Al and Josh's amusement, I was fuming. I knew that I only had one more go in me, otherwise I'd box up and be useless. I tied in, hoping that I would be able to get through with enough gas to tackle the face again. Thankfully, I got through the bottom section smoothly and locked like a crazy man into the side-pulls before slapping wildly into the rest. From there a fair bit of recovery ensued before rocking out to the top. Ah, relief.<br />
Next up, Samosa. I had a quick dabble last week and managed to link through from just above the crux to the top, so hopefully, with a little bit of honing and a touch more fitness I'll be a route minister in no time...<br />
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-78669173746215590902012-10-29T12:05:00.001+11:002012-10-29T12:05:16.712+11:00FA centralAnother week sans training means one of two things; either I am injured (thankfully not, on this occasion) or I have climbed outside at least four times. Bingo bitches!!! The weather has been cool and consistent and everyone has their happy faces on. Work is ignored, girlfriends/boyfriends forgotten and long evenings embraced. Though it is almost route season, the time to strap on a harness and kick about with some jangly bits, it has still been primo enough to do some hard moves before the summer blitz.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4FvsWDcMYKxlcdhohOIiUwcf9NSF0wN4juWCvrFjtjtAjjUQaBkrCuLLqg16QxRNUg5bT54yxuF_YmrrRwEtXRQWoYEXuPAw_1iqGzI4avxGsegjynDH7fAE0sX8xSDKYaOtwyGHhBFk/s1600/DSC03309.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4FvsWDcMYKxlcdhohOIiUwcf9NSF0wN4juWCvrFjtjtAjjUQaBkrCuLLqg16QxRNUg5bT54yxuF_YmrrRwEtXRQWoYEXuPAw_1iqGzI4avxGsegjynDH7fAE0sX8xSDKYaOtwyGHhBFk/s320/DSC03309.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Al, on the top of Blackbeard's</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinMdEYSbWuXAWXClj1qaMnk_rtFLPO0z7nMgWlme3a2R9_D05SX0_QPEUNav_cUjmsSMD2wuEKKGByMQQ3aJvyvbg6cC9gNyQwlzN5NwUCT3JNEdC3_gm3Em9pJym7YZrSb487eovjrZ0/s1600/DSC03303.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinMdEYSbWuXAWXClj1qaMnk_rtFLPO0z7nMgWlme3a2R9_D05SX0_QPEUNav_cUjmsSMD2wuEKKGByMQQ3aJvyvbg6cC9gNyQwlzN5NwUCT3JNEdC3_gm3Em9pJym7YZrSb487eovjrZ0/s320/DSC03303.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Joshy on the start of Blackbeard's</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJodJYJpW1CfgEYYxwO3e42nhHBNgYPJuxmF3zqdISaR9RhUAMenT9h9QSVkPqdOWcOfgQzK5fvJEzP0FrW72lX9oI2lUO_TVLSW6cLZBPIeX4vwt2XiytrmGKIZ82k4b9oiHW0NJcPMw/s1600/DSC03365.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJodJYJpW1CfgEYYxwO3e42nhHBNgYPJuxmF3zqdISaR9RhUAMenT9h9QSVkPqdOWcOfgQzK5fvJEzP0FrW72lX9oI2lUO_TVLSW6cLZBPIeX4vwt2XiytrmGKIZ82k4b9oiHW0NJcPMw/s320/DSC03365.jpg" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White Shadow...</td></tr>
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Matt and Vanessa arrived for another weekend of crushing and along came trucker cap wearing, hipster beard sporting, It guru and cigar purveyor, Stuey Partridge, for our now annual get together. It was a late arrival on Friday. The team wasn't all together until around 10.30, which is a pretty solid time to begin gulping down bottles of vino and cheese. Safe to say Saturday morning was slow going. We met up with Big Al and Grosey and ventured in to the 'top secret' area and got amongst it. Big Al flew up Blackbeard's Delight, proving that his time in Nati has not been wasted just doing easy trad and social dinners, whilst Josh played with his equipment... His camera, you freaks! Al had one look at the remaining project, Sex Panther and decided that it was for him. This problem had defied Matt and mine's attention for a number of sessions, due mainly to our inability to work out a suitable sequence. Low and behold Al lanked the shit out of it and did it in one session. Great effort buddy. There was no way that we were going to be able to do it that way, giving away almost 30 centimeters in height to the beanpole. <br />
I was a little distracted and had to put aside my froth for the blocs for a while as I already had a project lined up for the day. I had spotted a soaring arete a few weeks prior that set my palms a-sweating. It reminded me very much of my time on the Grit. I threw a rope down it one afternoon last week and started brushing it up. It's about 10 metres high and didn't look to have any gear. Sweet, I love that shit. I worked out most of the moves but realised that the crux move (slightly above half way) had to make serious use of a snappy hold on the face. Damn it, I don't mind getting high (not a metaphor) when the holds are solid, but putting yourself on the line with bad rock is a different ball game. I had a closer inspection of the face and noticed that there was a random slot that would take a couple of wires. Unfortunately it was out of reach of the arete, so I would probably have to pre-place the gear with a long sling on it. So be it. I had another session on it later in the week and decided that I was ready for a good old fashioned 'headpoint.' <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifigzWQHuCkrqNY3f-V56nlbnmS9mFllEahd2-nCoZdAhCBgLtPSWdpvMTdlt7RLxt-9xLEWCbaqihaK7KceAexK7UdhapW8oc_Isrg1srmZGwUzmWUEeRk7TtxodppcZ3rF23NOPdh8s/s1600/DSC03366.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifigzWQHuCkrqNY3f-V56nlbnmS9mFllEahd2-nCoZdAhCBgLtPSWdpvMTdlt7RLxt-9xLEWCbaqihaK7KceAexK7UdhapW8oc_Isrg1srmZGwUzmWUEeRk7TtxodppcZ3rF23NOPdh8s/s320/DSC03366.jpg" width="214" /></a>With the team around on Saturday, I decided that it would be time to 'ave it. I rapped in, had a final clean, popped the wires in (2 number 5 rocks) and I was away. Big Al on belay duty, as Matt seemed to have no idea how to use a harness, let alone a gri gri (so he was spotter), Josh on video and Ness on camera. Nothing like a day out with the paparazzi. <br />
I set off, reasonable holds at the base, lean back off a pocket, reach up for a high vertical seam, lay off it, reach out to a small pocket on the left face, pull up high, back step smear, long reach with the left hand to an insecure sloper, high step with the right, long lock through to a good hold. Re-compose. Thankfully the wind is blowing up the valley, forcing the sling closer to my waiting hand. Clip in, get finger stuck. Have a what-the-fuck moment. Manage to shake it loose. Long move out left to the snappy sidepull, lean back and high step whilst reaching to a slopey crimp with the right hand. Left foot comes on to a good hold, hips push in close to the wall, reach high to the right with the left hand, over the center of your body, a feeling of utter control pulsing. Grab a good sloper and then match. Stand hard on both feet, grab a solid crimp with the left, slopey jug with the right. Experience a moment of fear as i frog my feet up to their rightful position. I'm in!!! Steady away to the top. Sure a tumble from here will mean a ground fall, but it's easy terrain and i'm solid. What an amazing feeling. I grin and stand on top of the prow, enjoying a moment of solitude before rejoining life. White Shadow is the name. And it's a beauty. <br />
Well, that was just the start of Saturday... We spent the rest of the day playing on the blocs, mostly the guys working out the moves on The Quickening. I repeated it for the video, in highly comedic fashion, including a 180degree spin on the first moves, not really the way I did it originally. Then it was back to the Acres for home grown roast pork, beer, wine and cigars. Another night of merriment and another slow morning on Sunday.<br />
Again we ventured out to the same spot and met up with Dave Jones, who was super keen to see some new problems. He looked like he was going to flash Blackbeard's, but then was unable to reach his highpoint again. One of those classic all or nothing first goes. Matt and I set to work on figuring out a manageable sequence for Sex Panther. We made a few adjustments and started getting closer and closer, but were also getting more and more tired. I latched the last hold as my feet cut and took a huge swing, body going above the final holds. I just gripped harder and somehow managed to hold the swing, then just held the return as well. What a problem. Unfortunately Matt continued to take the ride off the final holds, but he'll be back next week... Thanks again to all for an amazing weekend.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-81812281732645591512012-10-08T14:57:00.000+11:002012-10-11T10:04:55.302+11:00Recently...The best thing about being a school teacher is the proximity of your next break. Never more than 11 weeks before a (minimum) two week holiday is a pretty sweet gig, even if you have to deal with everyone's precious/precocious adolescents in the interim. Today is day one back at work and already holidays have receded to a misty past, something that appears in my head as a cheap flashback scene reminiscent of an old episode of Kung Fu. Luckily, I shared my recent break with some of my closest peeps and it made for a great time, which included the sending of many classic new problems. Matt and Vanessa are now permanent residents of Oz (chamon) whilst Scootsy sauntered on down for a week from Sydney and we set about cleaning and sending a host of new problems at a totally new area in an amazing location. It's hard to believe that this stuff still exists relatively close to major tourist locations within the Grampians. I feel so lucky to be able to get out and send new problems, it's such a blessing. And to have a crew of other motivated and strong people to work these problems with has been a real boost.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blackbeard's Delight, V9</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scootsy topping out Musk Up, V9</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Quickening, V10, 3 stars for sure</td></tr>
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Over the last month we have managed to send about 25 new problems, mostly in the V8-V11 range, along with a few moderates. Being the greedy first ascensionist that I am, I have hogged most of the FAs, boosted by the fact that I'm on my home ground and have plenty of time after school to shoot out and get some newbies done, whilst the rest of the poor saps plod away at their real jobs.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ness working the moves of Musk Up </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Matt working the moves on The Quickening</td></tr>
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I don't know what it is exactly about new problems that whets my appetite, but it really is my greatest passion in terms of climbing. The searching part can be pretty shit to be fair, cleaning can be hard work, but once it comes to that mental and physical chess game with the rock, I'm in my element. As long as the Grampians is willing to keep giving, well, I'll be happy to continue playing...Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-24505261148098348182012-09-19T14:19:00.002+10:002012-09-19T14:27:53.400+10:00Newbies<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gangnam Style, FA</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Walker, FA, V9</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There will be blood, FA, V7</td></tr>
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Alas, it seems we will have to endure a little more spring rain before it clears into the perfect window of opportunity that I have been hoping for. A few of us have managed to get out and milk the dry days as best we could, but with two weeks of holidays starting Friday I am dearly hoping that primo conditions will prevail... Anyways, myself, chook, Nat, Earl, Sarah and Big Kriss have been getting amongst it, feverishly cleaning and drying new problems, as well as a bit of sending. It has been a real blast to have some people to wander around with seeking out new lines. It can be a very lonely and unpleasant task, but hanging out with a few other motivated souls with whom you can share a laugh when you come across another pea size boulder that looked like Amagamma from 500metres away, makes it much more amenable. Personally, doing FA's is my thing. I love repeating quality problems, but the process of finding, cleaning, unlocking sequences, daydreaming about said sequences, and finally, sending is the pinnacle of bloccing in my little world. Since finally knocking over the Taken, a bit of a weight of expectation has been lifted from my shoulders and I have been able to climb in other places, without the constant pressure that I had put on myself. This in turn has made me climb better and just enjoy my days even more than before. So, bring on Friday I say.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-12305935888121010922012-09-13T12:31:00.001+10:002012-09-13T12:31:27.172+10:00Bouncing Back<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It's always good when you attain something that you have lusted after, something that has made you sweat a little, something that has had you lying awake obsessing over. For me, that was my new problem, The Taken. I don't usually spend a lot of time on a particular problem, once I can do the moves, it's usually only a matter of one or maybe two sessions before for the business is done. That's my MO and that's the way I likes it. But, this sucker was different. I did the power crux in a session, a weird lock off move on the right hand up to a 'no hold' with the left. Move your feet over and dead point sideways to a jug. Take the tension and then begin the scary bit. Unfortunately, it didn't go according to plan. The sequence I had for the top came unstuck pretty quick. Cranking hard on a pebble, I skidded off, only to leave the entire pad of my middle finger resting on the hold. Two weeks and a bunch of fretting later and I was back to it. I knew that I couldn't face trying to do the move that way again, so I jumped on a cord and spent a good hour working out a new sequence. Armed with this new beta, I set off from the beginning, not to be denied my prize. A slight glitch however, I could no longer stick the low crux. Mildly frustrating to say the least. I had to walk away for another day. Luckily, the following day I was able to convince my spotters to venture in again to give me the support necessary. After a couple of falls at the crux I blasted through the bottom, ready to tackle the top section. Take a horizontal slopey pinch with the left, a good crimp with the right, hurl my right heel up to shoulder height, lock in desperately, take a slopey, slopey crimp with the right, drop into a side pull with the left, then launch again with the left to a slopey rail above. Fight hard to hold the tension, then match it up and delicately complete the top out. Result. Punter 1 - Problem 1. A decent tie I reckon... Thanks for the support from all those who came out to spot, it was much appreciated.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-57340335764017892892012-09-06T15:43:00.002+10:002012-09-06T15:43:58.773+10:00The Taken, V11<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-41484225493019628982012-08-30T09:55:00.000+10:002012-08-30T09:55:10.971+10:00Train how you play...Injuries are as much a part of sport as any other. It is how you manage and work around these afflictions that will determine your longevity or success in your chosen venture. As posted below, I had a bit of a set back a couple of weeks ago on my project. Initially I was pretty down about the whole thing. Firstly, I hadn't managed to send my project, which I had firmly hoped to do that day and secondly, I was facing at least a couple of weeks of non climbing. Now, I know that many people cannot understand the drive and absolute devotion to a seemingly worthless pursuit, such as climbing rocks, but for me it consumes just about every waking moment. When I look out the window on a day when the weather is fine, my first thought is climbing. When I roll out of bed on a Saturday morning, I think climbing. When I plan a holiday, climbing. But, I digress. What I was really wanting to sprout about was that no matter how decrepit you are, how broken down your temple has become, there is always something that you can do to maintain a semblance of power, fitness or motivation, ready to unleash the fury upon your return. So the last couple of weeks I have changed it up a little. My right hand was out, everything would have to be leftie-centric or involving a bar, which wouldn't impact on my shredded tip. It's not as if I have done anything revolutionary, but it has been a change and I have seen some rapid gains in just two weeks. So, with a favorable weather report and a heap of enthusiasm, I'll be heading back out on Saturday hoping that I can board the sending train. Adios.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-24740870713722919032012-08-24T09:23:00.001+10:002012-08-24T09:23:12.192+10:00Friday Flashback<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3fy6-C3evamRRzkz7Jkm_CjvQ5bsCnD7WFuBy9n2zl9fbNPz59K-tMVBvw0fx-kVBrAf70jK0Uik6nLypT33OWQZGoWFbvIU7Ed56gC37kOJx5wf6FZDuVmRK0Nh7L-2UT6BmlPNB83Q/s1600/Library+2110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3fy6-C3evamRRzkz7Jkm_CjvQ5bsCnD7WFuBy9n2zl9fbNPz59K-tMVBvw0fx-kVBrAf70jK0Uik6nLypT33OWQZGoWFbvIU7Ed56gC37kOJx5wf6FZDuVmRK0Nh7L-2UT6BmlPNB83Q/s320/Library+2110.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Problem 1</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8De2yirifog3EnAE6iDSxnCLkQhnqcZEnhhI2zQefL1ttMf57K7F-zYSePjAVqX7BMkINnkOPZFhiXKubvVfOZeBdES-MIXnGiEXS7LD5TxF3tLYQvaeZh7RfLJtRn7FAR8Fly_E71wI/s1600/Library+2373.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8De2yirifog3EnAE6iDSxnCLkQhnqcZEnhhI2zQefL1ttMf57K7F-zYSePjAVqX7BMkINnkOPZFhiXKubvVfOZeBdES-MIXnGiEXS7LD5TxF3tLYQvaeZh7RfLJtRn7FAR8Fly_E71wI/s320/Library+2373.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Problem 2</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjxFnQUrIsEhhriDG4nen7W59MbPHMvhu_ftta3g4lZLP7R3iXPHxXh029Ag2jGysB-T4CbkoQbNf4K1u4u_C_6OFxp7Jr8PJt1tjlF6lJsuh-HVPw313KPX1xrDwTElcQcx21hyYkQ_E/s1600/Simon's+Photos+146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjxFnQUrIsEhhriDG4nen7W59MbPHMvhu_ftta3g4lZLP7R3iXPHxXh029Ag2jGysB-T4CbkoQbNf4K1u4u_C_6OFxp7Jr8PJt1tjlF6lJsuh-HVPw313KPX1xrDwTElcQcx21hyYkQ_E/s320/Simon's+Photos+146.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Problem 3</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0CjOEHqcwFekddWJUfMjXKdE8OzEAUwiLbs6xi916wmZV7z37x5iAjkpbMTwW0LMUTLeKnoQFwksByuIyRRjL6RZtO5oRVl_EtcxO6FPHDgi3uyKD2I0QlUWbSJjOvop5FBEo_nMw37E/s1600/Library+2173.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0CjOEHqcwFekddWJUfMjXKdE8OzEAUwiLbs6xi916wmZV7z37x5iAjkpbMTwW0LMUTLeKnoQFwksByuIyRRjL6RZtO5oRVl_EtcxO6FPHDgi3uyKD2I0QlUWbSJjOvop5FBEo_nMw37E/s320/Library+2173.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Problem 4</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgzGjR-GqGykEb9MdgqPUNULnMZiJ6Oe9kxrq9xhkgMRLmnLpgseugWONPUK43i63B83gWXDuopgWT0m0rI1pBmMQYW3mwwoSMXVx3bUuCAI5MXGpL9jFzYt6W0D0ht2w2Y1IbUem0NTk/s1600/Library+2488.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgzGjR-GqGykEb9MdgqPUNULnMZiJ6Oe9kxrq9xhkgMRLmnLpgseugWONPUK43i63B83gWXDuopgWT0m0rI1pBmMQYW3mwwoSMXVx3bUuCAI5MXGpL9jFzYt6W0D0ht2w2Y1IbUem0NTk/s320/Library+2488.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Problem 5</td></tr>
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Righto, we're gonna have ourselves a little competition. Here are some pictures of some classic problems from the grit and also Font. What I need is a list of the problems and the grade. There are no prizes, because I am a tightarse and I am a not for profit organisation, but the pure joy of being a winner should be enough for you... Extra points for the name of the climbers as well. Nicknames will do. Enjoy the weekend...Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-26705668350134485332012-08-23T11:33:00.002+10:002012-08-23T11:35:53.841+10:00More Old Pics<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuWu2AKRu4LM11ixb6mwiyY6SLScLMGXOZfmsBWDZSuNzG24p89sAflr0UlCTFc3jOJh9vcQ4rIiU-1UcPUni19d-SCHnqetq6l11oMGKcVbI41sqhUsKyxMAVa8IHcKgQfwFlNIQp-8w/s1600/Dyno.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuWu2AKRu4LM11ixb6mwiyY6SLScLMGXOZfmsBWDZSuNzG24p89sAflr0UlCTFc3jOJh9vcQ4rIiU-1UcPUni19d-SCHnqetq6l11oMGKcVbI41sqhUsKyxMAVa8IHcKgQfwFlNIQp-8w/s400/Dyno.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-72360785964719925432012-08-20T14:21:00.003+10:002012-08-20T14:21:49.413+10:00The Plan<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-zVSKh2g_pHB3th0DJgh9uf571Oualcr083PGtdCH8GIwikuwJjtHo952BgULrB1FLBzxnvPHvad1S1K0D08xTwmFQqmXpiDvoQqM_diNRN7GIvEVRUOahrJVtg9xE1jY2N8ywZ_FMyM/s1600/IMG_0431.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-zVSKh2g_pHB3th0DJgh9uf571Oualcr083PGtdCH8GIwikuwJjtHo952BgULrB1FLBzxnvPHvad1S1K0D08xTwmFQqmXpiDvoQqM_diNRN7GIvEVRUOahrJVtg9xE1jY2N8ywZ_FMyM/s320/IMG_0431.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Project 1 Punter 0</td></tr>
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I was well psyched for the weekend, the weather was clearing, there were loads of people heading up and I had no other plans. Head out, brush the top of my project, get it sorted and then get it sent. It was all smooth sailing, except for the sending bit. First shot, trying the top section from the ground, I locked high of the sharp pebble and reached for the top hold, ready to make a slight lunge for safety. I spat off as my right hand skated hard off the pebble. I had that usual uneasy feeling that I had hit my knuckles on the rock as I came off, taking a good layer of skin with it. I landed hard, but was fine, stood up and looked at the back of my hand, a wee scratch, but nothing more. Sweet. I turned my hand over to see if it was damp and to my amazement there was no pad on my middle finger. Fuck, the whole lot from the joint to the tip and many layers deep was still waving like a little white flag from the wretched pebble. Day over... I hung out for a bit to offer moral support, but was pretty bummed really. Probably two weeks off in the middle of the season, not really what I was after. But, it does go to show, that not everything goes according to plan...Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00063723390039384688noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-857347018066466963.post-25002509573998534362012-08-17T09:39:00.002+10:002012-08-17T09:39:52.993+10:00Gallery<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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